Waves
67 commentsAs any surfer already knows, waves are what it's all about. Here we discover just what types of waves there are out there. One of the things that make surfing so much of a challenge is that every wave is different. Which wave have you been surfing lately?
Types of Surf Break
The three main types of waves
Beach Break - The beach break is where the waves break on the sandy seabed. This type of wave is the best to start surfing on. A good example of a classic beach break is Hossegor in Southern France which can hold perfect barrels up to 20 feet. Here are some photos of beach breaks.
Point Break - The Swayze / Reeves flick entitled "Point Break" was named after this type of wave! The point break is a wave that breaks onto a rocky point. A good example of a point break is Bells Beach in Australia. (It's nice how this links the film and the wave together!) Here are some photos of point breaks.
Reef Break - The reef break is a wave that breaks over a coral reef or a rock seabed. These waves are usually the classic ones that you can see on the surfing videos. These waves can be unforgiving if you happen to wipe out badly, but they can be the most rewarding in their perfection. Pipeline on the North Shore is a superb example of a reef break. Here are some photos of reef breaks.
NB: We've left out rivermouth waves from the above section because these can be waves that break over rocky ledges or sandy bottoms. Great waves in their own right though.
Want to know about waves for surfing in more detail? Check out the book "Surf Science: An Introduction To Waves For Surfing."
Lefts, Rights and Peaks
We now look a little deeper into the world of waves. Who knows what a left-hand point break is? Hands up. Which way does a left-hand wave (or a left-hander as you will soon refer to them) break? A wave is either a left or a right, depending on which direction the wave breaks from the point of view of a surfer paddling and riding the wave. If a surfer is paddling to catch the wave and it is breaking from right to left (the surfer will have to turn left to get on the wave) then this wave is a left. From the beach the wave will be seen to breaking to the right, but the surfer's point of view counts here, OK! A right is obviously the opposite of a left, just in case you hadn't worked that one out yet.
A peak is a wave that breaks forming a rideable wave both left and right. Two surfers can surf it at the same time in different directions.
Onshore, Offshore, and Cross Shore
The wind is where the waves come from, and it's the ultimate deciding factor between a really great day of surfing or a day of non-surfing. An onshore wind is the worst wind for surfing. The wind blows in from the sea and ensures that all the waves crumble and have no shape, making the waves un-surfable. A cross shore wind is not desirable either, not giving shape to the waves.
An offshore wind is the best wind for surfing. It ensures that the waves rolling in are well formed and break cleanly. If you want quality waves then you want an offshore wind. If you are going to go surfing, then make sure you keep an eye on the weather. But that is an entirely different! Why not have a read about how a swell is generated?
Not sure about some of the lingo used when waves and surf are being described? Take a look at the "wave terms explained" page.
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Thanks to this site i put in my report still working on it will tell what i got in 2-3 weeks
Wicked, thanks for the info really help me a lot :)
Thanks, good explainations
what type of waves do surfers look for and why
@Guest on Oct 5, 2011 - here's some information on the waves surfers look for.
awesome news guys !!!! now know where to surf( hahah all th good place)
HO GOOD EXPLANATIONS HELPED ALOT TANKZ NOW I NOW WERE TO GET BARRE'LLED. BUT WERE DO U GO TO LOOK FOR BIG WAVES
thanks, info very helpful
i like to surf
this article is really goo. now i know what makes the wave happened..
just want to info,
everyone, just come to indonesia to have a good wave, of course bali is famous, but there are hundreds spot that like never been touch
you can find a virgin beach, in a village, just come to sawarna beach, 1 hour from cimaja west java
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TOTALLY RAD DUDE
Looking good...maybe you should go into the low tide vs. high tide impact or non--- on waves and conditions.
I've seen multiple sites for "offshore","onshore", and "sideshore" wind directions and I thought (and so do other sources) the wind was called by it's origen. So if the wind is "offshore" it comes in from the ocean and if it's "onshore" it comes from land. Could you double check that for me?
Never mind the onshore/offshore wind direction, I've found my mistake. I was looking at a post from Cali and I'm on the east coast.
Excellent info. thanks brodi !
thanks
cool
Good start
Cool got it...been turning the wrong way for like everrrr. movin on to wind.
Great Help! thanks
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alsome nthanx now i knw what waves im surfing
i love surfing
Nice!!!
HI AND THIS IS SORTA HELPFUL
All this info is false
Thanks for stopping by Kelly! (obviously disappointed about losing out to Mick this year)
Tnx man
Thnxs. this is cool.
I love this web site and iv learned so much.Now I can surf waves and maybe one day a maverick wave:)
I see a lot mentioned about the sea on the internet but not much is mentioned on the types of waves you get in short catagories like glossy, rough, lumpy, messy, flat and ripple etc.
Thx it helped a lot
cool
Thanknyou, this actually helped me a lot because i am a beginner to surfing! :) cheers matey
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Hi. I have been surfing for about 4 months with lessons every week in Makaha Beach in Lima, Peru (average 3 per week) and I am ready to branch out and surf on my own at other beaches but I am not sure I understand how to read the surf report and make sure I am not headed out on waves that are too big for me. Is there an average for swell rating, period, direction, and height that is safest for a beginner but not too hard to catch?
I'm gonna write a book called, "How Not to Be a Kook"!! I like your article, just an idea. Who know's, in this world, someone has probably already written this one; or, it may be well received. LMAO
This is totally awesome, dude! I don't like it. I frickin' love it, dude!
It's amazing how you can read and know all this and still not get good waves.
There is a spiritual element involved that can't be explained.
You need to look deeper within yourself and the universe, past the numbers and data.
Grow your soul, grow your surf.
shakers bra
Hi Guys,
Strange i know but am putting some broadband packages together all around surfing the web !! and wanted to name them was thinking could use the waves as inspiration do you have names for different size waves
Small wave ?
average wave?
ultimate wave?
Any help would be greatly received
I love bodyboarding and am going to Florida this summer
this did not help at allX_X
Oh baby. Great advice. thx
sick info, cheers bruz
Thank you! Great introduction.
thank you, this was awesome :)
this website is good, thx for setting it up, it is great !
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idk if you rlly need it for reports, but it would be great for that :)
---- very welcome xox
it gives you more information about waves.
great help in reading Wm. Finnegan's "Barbarian Days....". thx from this elderly hodad !
I'm 72 and want to go surfing!!! Thank you. I had chances in 1962-64 but never made it.