The History of Surfing
38 commentsSurfing has been a way of life for thousands of years among Pacific Islanders. In ancient times, surfing prowess earned you actual political power. In the early 1900s, surfing began to be recognized by international sporting agencies as a legitimate sport. Surfing's mainstream popularity peaked in the United States in the early 1960s, with music, movies, and television programs dedicated to the surfing lifestyle.
Surfing is still a popular sport at any beach where there are plenty of waves, and surfers are now pushing the boundaries, being towed into huge waves . The boards have gotten smaller and lighter and the surfing culture is more conservative than in the early days, but modern surfers still appreciate the ebb and flow of waiting for the perfect wave and riding it all the way to the sand.
The Ancient Polynesians
The first European encounter with surfing happened in 1767 off the coast of Tahiti. European sailors were intrigued by the Polynesians who could walk on water using long, heavy boards. For the Polynesians, surfing was a way to establish social rank and political power. The man who was the best surfer became chief of the tribe, and he was awarded a surfboard made from the best tree in the village. The social structure was established through surfing, with the best beaches and the best boards reserved for the upper class. Surfing skill was well respected throughout the community, however, and commoners could elevate their social status by proving their skills on the heavy inferior boards that they surfed with.
In the early 1800s the Hawaiian islands were visited by European missionaries who discouraged all forms of native culture, including surfing. The culture of Polynesian surfing dwindled until there were very few natives who still knew how to surf by the 1900s. The ancient art of building surfboards was also in danger of becoming obsolete by the turn of the century. Only a small handful of native Hawaiians continued to create boards and surf regularly.
Next we look at the Importance of Surfing in Ancient Hawaii
very interesting
i wanna surf
i want to learn how to surf
i really want to learn how to surf, it looks and sounds like fun too me :D
wow i love sufring its just so funnnn
surfing is my thing
I wish I lived near the ocean, then I could learn how to surf.
Surfing is fun
I want to surf good and also how to ride a bycicle in water
i LOVE LOVE LLLLOOOOVVVVEEEE surfing more than anything in the WORLD other than my family
Surfing has been a way of life for me for many years now yet I never knew about its history. Very Fastinating. I love surfing<3
cool! many historys of surfing! Surfs Up
I LUV SURFING!!!!! <33333
surfin is the thing that keeps me alive
i REALLY want to learn how to surf
who is the author
ha i wanna surf
surf is my life!!! there is nothing else I would rather do! I could surf fo breakfast lunch and dinner
surfing is so much fun. Your article was very interesting
I always surf it is awesome
Surfing is awesome! Hang ten, Dude!
I started board surfing in So. Calif. in 1937 at age 13. In those days we surfed with hollow boards made with plywood. Duke Kahanamoku and Tom Blake were key individuals in the promotion board surfing in So. California.
Boards,Over the years, were improved and advanced to hallow planked deck boards, then to solid red and bolsawood square tail boards, to solid bolsawood boards. I had one of the first all bolsawood boards made by Hobie Alter in San Clemente, California, who went on to develop the popular Hobie Cat.
Today boards are much more advanced using fiberglass and other material.
Sincerely
J.L.Walker, Sr.
Love to see some photos of those days and old boards Mr Walker. If you've got any you'd like to share please email them over.
Many thanks, SP
i love getting absolutely pitted!!!!!!! in like 20 foot swell. at tamaaaaaaaa
cool
Aloha dudeeesssss! I love to surf man!!!!
surf is da bom
This is not true
all this love for surfing i dont blame you guys. But we should really be thanking the ocean for being so amazing. It provides waves and pure happiness. coming from a true beach baby since day 1.
Surf comps are the best man. Love to surf and compete
yeh ride da wave
I love to surf it is my favorite sport
SURFING IS AWESOME!
Surfs up yeet yeet yeet
surfs up in ISO :D
i also want to surf
surfs up
I LOVE SURFING :3