Learning to Sail

Small Boat Sailing at the

UCLA Marina Aquatic Center
Section 2: Introduction to Single-Handed Sailing

By Vladislav J. Mikulich
Learning to Sail
Small Boat Sailing at the UCLA
th
Marina Aquatic Center 5 revised edition

Vlad Mikulich performing a headstand on the bow of a Laser (c. 2009).

Original Text by Carla Thorson and Steve Orosz Original Drawings by Rob Tokar

Subsequent revisions with new graphics by Steve Orosz (2001, 2004)

Current revisions, additions, photographs, and graphics by Vladislav J. Mikulich

Special Contributors: John Nelson, Vicky Tsoi, Kathy Luciano, Peter Boradwell, Chris Howard, Sean Silver, Crossman
Willkins, and Lynn Dixon

Dedication: To Aurora, you inspire me like no other. Thank you!

© 2009 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
without the expressed written permission from the Editor: themac@marinaaquaticcenter.org or mac@recreation.ucla.edu
.
Earlier Editions ©1995, 2001, 2004, 2006
COVER: Steve Orosz, UCLA Head Sailing Instructor 1995-2005 (c. 2004)
Table of Contents
Downwind Sailing: Zig-Zag 78
I. BASIC SAILING SKILLS
Introduction to sailing at UCLA 4 Tacking 79-80
Safety and Preparation 5-6 Gybing 81-82
Sailing Area 7 Rigging: V-15 83-86
Parts of the Boat: Capri 14.2 8-10
Derigging: V-15 87-90
Wind Sensing 11
How Sailboats Work: Beginner 12 _________________________________
Sailing Directions: Points of Sail 13-15 IV. INTRODUCTION TO CATAMARAN SAILING
Starting the Boat 16 Parts of the boat: Hobie 16 91-92
Stopping and Slowing the Boat 17 Tacking: Body Placement 93-95
Steering the Boat: Use of the Tiller 18 Gybing 96-98
Tacking 19 Trapezing/ Flying a hull 99-101
Sailing Upwind: Beating 20 Rigging: Hobie 16 102-106
Gybing 21 Derigging: Hobie 16 107-111
Navigational Rules of the Road 22-24 _________________________________
Capsize Recovery 25-26 VI. INTERMEDIATE TO ADVANCED SAILING TOPICS
Person Overboard Recovery 27 Roll Tacking 112-113
Knots Beginner: Belaying & Figure-Eight 28 Roll Gybing 114-115
Rigging: Capri 14.2 29-33 How Sails Work: Circulation Theory 116
Launching 34-35 Upwind Sailing in Gusts 117-118
Docking 36-37 Wave Sailing Upwind 119-120
Derigging: Capri 14.2 38-42 Wave Sailing Downwind 121-122
_________________________________ Foward and Aft Torquing: Laser 123-124
II. INTRODUCTION TO SINGLE-HANDED SAILING Mast Rake 125
Parts of the Boat: Laser 43-44 Ocean Safety 126-128
Displacement Sailing vs Planing 45 Three Basic Wind Shifts 129-130
Current 131-132
Boat Trim 46-48
Local Weather: MDR 133-134
Hiking Properly 49-50
Sailing by the Lee 135
Sail Controls: Laser 51-53
Introduction to Racing 136-140
Knots Intermediate: Bowline, Hitches
Sheet Bend, & Coiling a line 54-55 _________________________________
Tacking: Use of a Tiller Extension 56-57 VII. GLOSSARY 140-147
Gybing: 58-59
Dry Capsize Recovery: Walkover 60
Rigging: Laser 61-67
Derigging: Laser 68-71
_________________________________
III. INTRODUCTION TO DOUBLE HANDED
PERFORMANCE SAILING:
Parts of the Boat: V-15 72-73
Points of Sail: Speed Differentials 74
Sail Setup 75-76
Upwind Sailing: Planning 77
Vlad Mikulich, UCLA Head Sailing Instructor 2005 to present, mid-tack during reach on breezy
day (c.2004).
 Parts of the Boat: Laser
It has been said that the Laser represents sailing in its purest form. On the water, it is just the vessel, a single sailor and
whatever Mother Nature throws at her. There are no high tech gadgets or fancy equipment on a Laser. In fact, the Laser
is a strict one-design class where modifications to the vessel are forbidden. In a race between two Lasers, or for that
matter 100 Lasers, it is the better sailor that will prevail, not the one with the better equipped vessel as the boats are
virtually identical.

The boat is fairly simple to set up, yet it is capable of handling conditions ranging from the lightest breeze to gale force
winds (34-47 knots). There are three optional rigs (the mast, boom, and sails) that attach to an identical hull. Each sail
is designed for sailors of different weight ranges. The Standard Rig was designed for sailors weighing between 160 to
190+ lbs, and has 76 square feet of sail. The Radial Rig, which has 62 square feet of sail, was designed for sailors in the
weight range of 121 to 160 lbs. The 4.7 Rig, which has 50.6 square feet of sail (4.7 square meters of sail), was designed
for sailors within the weight range of 77 to 121 lbs. These “optimal ranges” are not absolute standards, but rather
guidelines for being successful in a variety of racing conditions. To learn more about the Laser, please visit the North
American Laser Class Association at www.laser.org.

Forward
Sailing II: Laser

Luff Sleeve

Boom Clew Hook

Cunningham Grommet

Cunningham
Boom Vang
Daggerboard Mainsheet
Mast Step

Mainsheet Block Outhaul and Cunningham Cleats

Mainsheet Cleat
Tiller Extension Grab Rail

(right side of boat)

Hiking Strap
Tiller Traveler
Traveler Blocks
Starboard
(left side of boat)

Drain Plug
Gudgeon and
Pintles
Port

Rudder
Aft (Toward the back of the boat)
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 Head (corner of the sail)
LASER: The Laser is the Men’s and Women’s Olympic
Class single-handed dinghy, and it is arguably the most “Any fool can carry on, but a wise
man knows how to shorten sail in
popular racing vessel in the world with over 200,000 boats time.”
built-to-date. It is cat rigged: it has a single mast with — Joseph Conrad
triangular mainsail and no headsail (jib).

Leech

Sailing II: Laser

(side of the sail)

Luff
(side of the sail)

Batten Pocket

Telltale

Foot
Clew
(corner of the sail)
(side of the sail) Cunningham Grommet
Tiller Extension Tack (corner of the sail)

Mainsheet Outhaul
Boom
Boom Vang Cunningham
Cockpit
Bow Eye

Rudder

Daggerboard Hull

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 Displacement vs Planing
There are two modes of sailing for monohull vessels: displacement and planing. Most large monohulls and all slow
moving small ones operate via displacement sailing. Certain smaller vessels are capable of operating via planing when
enough power is applied.

Archimedes’ Principle of Buoyancy states that an object to skim along the surface of the water using the flatter
fully or partially immersed in a liquid will displace a volume portion of the aft hull. This occurs any time the boat has
of water equal in weight to the weight of the object. Sailboats enough power applied to the sails to break free from the
that operate via this principle are sailing in displacement wave it created. The heavier the vessel, the more power
mode. that must be applied to the sails for the hull to break free
from the wave; therefore very few large sailboats can plane.

Although Catamarans and certain modern keelboats are able

to operate above hull speed by using unique design features
that are explained in other parts of the manual, they still are
limited by the resistance created by displacement sailing,
and thus the above topic applies to all vessels in the water.
Sailing II: Laser

Planing in a Laser can be achieved on the following points

of sail: Beam Reach, Broad Reach, and a Run. Beginners
who wish to learn to plane should first start on a Beam Reach
in flat water as it is the fastest point of sail for a Laser. If the
Displacement hull plows skipper is the optimal weight for the vessel she will most
likely need a fresh breeze (16-20 knots) to initiate planing.
through the water slowly
A boat operating via displacement mode has a limited speed In these conditions it is essential that the skipper keep the
potential because it must perpetually displace a patch of boat flat on the reach, as a boat with heel has an asymmetrical
water equal to its own weight. Displacement boats create hull in the water that impedes planing. The sailor should
waves as they move. As a boat begins to speed up, fewer move her weight aft as the vessel begins to pick up speed.
and fewer waves are generated until only one wave, which is By doing so, the bow of the boat will be lifted, thereby
the length of the boat, is produced. This single trough wave reducing drag as there will be less area exposed to the water.
has a crest at the bow and stern of the boat. The generated
wave cannot get much longer than the hull of the boat. Furthermore the lifted bow area which has a pronounced
Surface waves are dispersive, which means their speed is curve is not suited for planning, whereas the flat aft section
dependent upon the length of the wave. The longer the wave, of the Laser is.
the faster it can travel. Therefore each wave of a particular
length has a theoretical maximum speed. All boats have a Lastly, by lifting the bow up, it makes it easier for the boat to
theoretical “hull speed” that is dependent on the length of break out of the wave it created.
the vessel. Bow lifts and boat planes
The theoretical hull speed of a boat in knots is equal to 1.34 on aft portion of the hull
multiplied by the square root of the Length Water Line
(LWL). The LWL is the length of the vessel that is actually
sitting in the water. For example a Laser is 13.78 feet long and
approximately 13 feet of the hull sits in the water at any
given time. This means a Laser’s theoretical maximum speed
is 1.34 X 3.61 = 4.83 knots.

Yet a Laser’s maximum speed is definitely above 4.83 knots.

Lasers and other light weight small dinghies can operate as
planing vessels quite easily. In planing mode, the hull rises
out of the water and escapes the single trough wave it
produced while moving. Thus as a boat begins to plane, the
hull skips over the crest of the wave at the bow and begins
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Boat Trim
Boat trim is the hull’s angle relative to the water. All vessels can rotate about their center of mass in three dimensions:
pitching (fore and aft rotation), rolling (side to side rotation, commonly called heel) and yawing (clockwise to
counterclockwise rotation when viewed from above). The Laser has a very light hull. At approximately 130 lbs, the hull’s
weight relative to the sailor’s weight makes the boat ideal to be responsive to the sailor’s position in regards to control-
ling both pitching and rolling. The right body placement in the boat is extremely important to sailing fast and efficiently
in a Laser!
Essential Knowledge
On most points of sail the Laser is most efficient when sailed
flat!
Heeled Mast

No Roll (Heel) Lift

Downward Force

Sailing II: Laser

Sailor keeps his boat flat through the use
of his body position
Why sail flat? A heeled boat causes a downward force
A flat boat allows the mast to stay vertical which means lift is
near the horizontal plane that impedes forward motion
Sailing Upwind
Upwind sailing is one of the biggest challenges in learning
Near Vertical to sail a Laser, as it can be quite physical when the breeze is
Lift Mast strong. It requires a combination of proper sail trim, boat
trim, and pointing angle to be effective.

All upwind sailing regardless of the wind conditions is based

on generating lift via Bernoulli’s Principle.

Bernoulli’s Principle
Bernoulli’s Principle states that a fast moving fluid
exerts less pressure than a slow moving fluid. Sails have an
asymmetrical shape that allows airflow along each side to
Lift is generated perpendicular to the sail have a different overall speed. The overall speed of the air
on the leeward side is always faster than on the windward
If the boat is sailed with a heel, a downward force is generated
side. This means there is a low pressure system on the leeward
that depresses the hull into the water and reduces speed.
side of the sail, and thus lift is created perpendicular to the
chord of the sail.
O Captain! My Captain! Airflow on
Airflow on the
Our fearful trip is done, the leeward
windward
The ship has weathered every rack, side is faster
side is slower
the prize we sought is won,
the Port is near,
High
Low Pressure
the bells I hear Pressure
the people all exulting.

— Walt Whitman Lift is perpendicular

to the chord of the
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 On its own, this force causes the boat to slide sideways as When sailing to windward in a Laser it is important to keep
well as heel (rotational force). To go to windward a boat the boat flat in almost all conditions. This allows the foils to
needs more than just lift on the sails. The vessel must have produce the most efficient lift to windward. To do this one
lateral resistance to the sliding force as well as lift from must often hike as the wind increases (see page 49-50).
the submerged portion of the vessel. This is provided by
the foils (daggerboard and rudder). Two-Block
Along with keeping the boat flat, the sailor must trim the
sail appropriately. In all but the lightest and heaviest breeze
Sail catches wind the mainsail is two-blocked when going to windward.
which causes the boat
Two-blocking a sail is an essential skill all Laser sailors
to slide sideways need to master in order to sail upwind effectively. When
the sail is sheeted in fully and the traveler block touches
the boom block the sail has effectively been two-blocked.

Foils resist
sideways slippage Two-Blocked
Sailing II: Laser

through the water

(Lateral Resistance)
A Laser has a thin wing-shaped daggerboard, which not only
provides lateral resistance, but also generates lift which
aids the vessel in pointing to windward. A two-blocked sail bends the mast aft and tightens the
leech. This in effect depowers the sail, but allows the boat
As stated above, when sailing to windward there is a large to point closer to windward. The loss of speed is offset by
force on the sail that translates to sideways slippage and sailing a shorter distance. The concept of having an optimal
heel. This force is counteracted by the foils. Although the balance between speed and pointing angle is known as
foils on a Laser are symmetrical, because the boat slides Velocity Made Good (see page 52 for more details).
sideways the water does not strike the foil head-on, but
instead hits it at an angle a few degrees to leeward. Therefore Steerage via the Hull
the foil can generate a lifting force that pulls the boat to When the hull heels to either side it becomes asymmetrical
windward. Combining the forces generated from the sail in regards to its shape in the water. This means that as the
and the foils produces the forward movement of a sailboat. boat tracks through the water it has a different amount of
force on each side. This force causes the boat to turn.
Lift From Daggerboard
A vessel with heel to the leeward side is said to have
Weatherhelm as the boat will naturally want to turn to
weather (windward).

L
H

Heel

L= Low Pressure
H= High Pressure Vessel turns to windward due to leeward
= Flow of water heel
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A vessel with heel to the windward side is said to have When not to be flat?
Leehelm as the boat will want to turn to leeward. As mentioned above, a boat can have a slight heel when
beating to windward in a light breeze. But are there other
times the boat should be heeled for optimal speed?
Vessel turns to Leeward due
When sailing on a close reach, beam reach or broad reach it
to windward heel is essential to keep the boat flat in all conditions. Aside from
being able to initiate planning if there is enough wind, a flat
boat provides the most efficient use of force for forward
drive.

But on a run a Laser can be sailed with a slight heel to

windward. This aligns the Center of Effort with the Center
of Buoyancy. The Center of Effort is the theoretical point on
the sail that is the balance point for all the aerodynamic
forces on the sail. The Center of Buoyancy is the theoretical
point on the hull that is the balance point for all of the
hydrodynamic forces on the vessel. By placing these forces
Heel directly over each other, the boat will have neutral helm on a
run and will be most stable.

Sailing II: Laser

Limited Helm Usage
A Laser sailor is rewarded with more speed if she is subtle
with her tiller. Each time the tiller is used, water is deflected
by the rudder, and thus acts as a brake. Therefore, to be
most efficient, the sailor should attempt to use the least
amount of rudder necessary to steer the vessel.

As mentioned above the vessel can be steered via boat trim.

A Laser sailor can make small course changes by inducing
heel in the vessel, and thus will steer via Weatherhelm and
X CE
Leehelm. This steerage is subtle, and when used in
conjunction with the rudder makes the boat more efficient.

Steerage Mistakes
One of the most common mistakes a beginning Laser sailor
will make is attempting to turn her vessel in one direction
when the boat has a heel which counteracts the rudder. If
the boat has leeward heel and the skipper wants to fall off
the force on the rudder will be fighting the boat’s natural X CB
inclination to turn to windward. Therefore it is vital to keep
the boat flat or induce the proper heel to help with the turn!

Furthermore many sailors when going to windward will not Center of Effort (CE) is aligned over
hike hard enough to keep the boat flat in a moderate breeze,
and this means the boat will want to turn to windward, which the Center of Buoyancy (CB) which
is known as rounding up. The skipper will either find herself provides neutral helm
constantly pulling the tiller toward herself to track a straight
course or will end up in irons.
“I find the great thing in this world is not so much where we stand as
One should keep the boat flat when sailing a close-hauled in what direction we are moving: To reach the port of heaven, we must
course. The only exception to this is in very light air when a sail sometimes with the wind and sometimes against it— but we must
leeward heel will induce curvature in the sail and help generate sail and not drift nor lie at anchor.”
lift. The slight loss in lift on the blades due to the heel will be
offset by the fact that the sail will generate more lift with — Oliver Wendell Holmes
proper shape.
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 Hiking Properly
Hiking is the leaning of one’s body over the windward side of the boat to counter the heeling forces on the sails. On a
Laser there is a hiking strap that the sailor puts her feet under to secure her body when leaning out of the boat. Learning to
properly hike will make your boat more efficient and thus faster in a moderate to strong breeze.

Why Hike? The disadvantage of this style is that it is extremely

The deck of a Laser was not designed for ergonomic physical, and often very difficult to maintain for long
consideration. It was made for car topping (placing the deck periods of time. The style can take a long time to develop,
onto the roof rack of a car for transportation). and sailors often bruise or strain their ankles, thighs, and
calves in the process.

Car topped Laser

Straight-Legged Hiking: Maximum Leverage
Sailing II: Laser

Flat deck of Laser facilitates car topping

It actually hurts to hike due to the shape of the vessel. So if
hiking hurts why do it? The simple answer is that a flat boat
is a fast boat! Leeward heel causes the lift on the sail to
acquire a downward vector which slows the boat (see page
46 for a more detailed explanation.)

Types of Hiking Bent-Legged Hiking is characterized by having a looser

There are three established forms of hiking: Drooped-Legged hiking strap that allows the sailor to have a slight bend in
Hiking, Bent-Legged Hiking and Straight-Legged Hiking. her knees. A gap between the knees and the deck of the boat
is easily discernable.
Drooped-Legged Hiking is found on vessels such as a Star
Keelboat and is inappropriate for a Laser as the deck is too Bent-Legged Hiking is more comfortable, and therefore a
close to the water to allow a sailor to bend one’s knees to 90 sailor is likely to maintain the position for a longer period of
degrees and droop over the side of the hull with the body time which often offsets the loss of leverage from not
below the deck. On a Laser this would cause the sailor to be Straight- Legged Hiking.
completely under the water! Lasers sailors will either hike
in a Straight-Legged fashion or Bent-Legged one.

Straight-Legged Hiking is characterized by having a

relatively tight hiking strap. The sailor literally places just
the toes of her feet under the hiking strap, and locks out
her knees. She then leans out of the boat to windward to Bent-Legged Hiking
maximize her righting leverage.

The benefit of this technique is that the sailor is really “locked

into the cockpit,” and thus her body movements efficiently
translate into movements of the boat. The tighter strap also
GAP
keeps the sailor’s backside out of the water and the upper
body achieves an angle that results in the greatest amount
of leverage possible.
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While hiking in either fashion the upper body should be You should keep your toes pointed up or outwards. Never
flat. The sailor should not allow her back to curl as this inwards! By allowing your feet to point inwards you will be
puts unneeded stress on the lower portion of the back and placing a greater amount of force on the outside quadriceps
makes your hiking position much less efficient. It would be muscles relative to the inside quadriceps muscles. This
far better to slide in and keep your back straight than to uneven distribution will cause the kneecaps to pull outwards
hike from your toes but curl the upper body into the boat. and a condition called patellofemoral pain will develop
after time.

Good hiking: feet together, toes pointing

upward while hiking from the middle of
the feet. Sailor is locked into the cockpit!
Toes while hiking!
Poor hiking technique

Poor hiking technique: curled back, over

Sailing II: Laser

flattened, dragging in the water, etc. Static Muscle Contraction
Your goal is to keep the boat flat. If the breeze is lighter Hiking involves a “static muscle contraction” that is
and you do not need that much weight out, the sailor should different than the explosive muscle contraction of an
slide her legs and buttocks in and keep a straight back. Olympic Weight lifter or the repetitive muscle
contractions of a Marathon runner. While hiking a sailor
locks out her muscles and attempts to stay in the same
position for a long period of time. The constant contraction
of the muscles constricts blood flow to the legs and
therefore after a long period the thighs are deprived of
oxygen. To counteract this, a sailor must transiently relax
the muscles in one leg at a time. This will allow blood
flow to reenter each leg while the other leg is used to
completely support the body.

Overhand Grip
You should always have an overhand grip on the tiller when
hiking! There are times when you will not hold your tiller in
an overhand grip, but never while hiking!
Breeze too light to fully hike. Sailor keeps
body inboard to flatten boat. Do NOT do the following while hiking:
Do NOT cleat the mainsheet and forget about it as you will
You should sit 0-10 inches aft of the daggerboard. need to use it to constantly adjust the sail while hiking. If
you are hit with a gust when fully hiked and you are not
When hiking you should feel an equal amount of pressure holding the mainsheet you will likely capsize. Furthermore it
on your thighs and calves. If you feel too much pressure on will help you pull yourself into the vessel in a lull.
your thighs it means your body is not out far enough which Do NOT wrap the mainsheet around your hand as a large
could be due to a hiking strap that is too tight or the fact that gust will likely pull you off balance and injure your hand.
you are not allowing yourself to slide out as far as you are Do NOT put the mainsheet in your teeth as it appalls my
capable of. Conversely if you feel too much on your calves dentist.
your hiking strap is too lose. Do NOT hold the tiller in a underhand “frying pan” grip.
Do NOT heel the boat to windward as this will cause the
Regardless of which style is used, you should try to lock boat to slide sideways by reducing lift from the blades.
your legs into the cockpit so that the motions of your body Do NOT curl your back. Keep it straight.
translate into motions of the boat. A Laser was meant to be Do NOT be afraid to hike. The straps will hold you. Water is
steered kinetically: through body movement and placement. soft and this is what Laser sailing is all about!

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 Sail Controls: Laser
Modern sails are not flat pieces of cloth with only a two dimensional shape. All sails have a built in curve that is formed
when the sailmaker sews the panels of the sail together. This curved shape aids in generating lift. This built in curve on a
Laser sail can be increased or decreased by adjusting the six available sail controls: Mainsheet, Outhaul, Cunningham,
Boom Vang, Clew Tie Down, and Traveler.

Sail Types much as she can handle” (as defined by her ability to control
There are three established sailing rigs for the Laser, and the boat and keep the hull flat) given the wind conditions
due to the unique shape and cut of the sail, each is trimmed and waves. The caveat to this mantra is that the sail cannot
differently. The text below was written for the Standard Rig, be made so full that it hinders the lift that is generated.
although many of the same principles can be applied to the
Radial Rig. When differences are sufficient, a separate entry Airflow tends to separate (detach) on the leeward side of
for the Radial Rig will appear. the sail, generating turbulence. The place where airflow
separates and produces turbulence is defined as the break
The Standard Sail is composed of eight panels of resin- point of the sail. As the sail becomes fuller the break point
impregnated Dacron cloth sewn together horizontally. The moves forward (towards the luff). If the sail is too full the
sail’s curvature is induced by sewing the curved seams of breakpoint will appear closer to the center of the sail instead
the horizontal panels together as well as from the curve of of near the leech, and thus the sail will stall.
Sailing II: Laser

the luff.

Standard Sail: Panels Are Horizontal Minimal

Separation Excessively full
sail leads to
early separation

The Radial Sail is composed of the same cloth as the Standard

Sail, but the panels are laid in a radial cut from the clew. This
makes the sail more sensitive to the various sail controls and
is capable of handling gusts more readily.

Radial Sail: Panels “Radiate from Clew”

Mainsheet:
The mainsheet is the sail control the skipper uses most often
while sailing on all points of sail. Proper sheeting angle is
vital for the boat to sail efficiently. An under-trimmed sail
luffs because lift is not generated. An over-trimmed sail
causes early separation (moves the break point forward on
the sail) and thus stalls the sail.

Over-trimming is worse than under-trimming. To correct

Basic Sail Theory Expanded: an under-trimmed sail all one must do is trim in until the
On all points of sail but the run, the curvature of the sail sail stops luffing. The wind will quickly re-attach to a
induces lift via Bernoulli’s Principle. The amount of lift properly trimmed sail, and the boat will reach full speed
generated depends on how well the air adheres to the sail as quickly. To correct an over-trimmed sail one must trim
it travels along both the leeward and windward sides. A out the sail to the proper angle of attack. The new air flow
fuller (rounded sail) has more power than a flatter sail, but must then push through the turbulence that was generated
less ability to point to windward when beating upwind. When at the early break point, which is too far forward. Therefore
setting up a sail, the sailor’s goal is to “power up the sail as it takes much longer to correct.
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Lift is approximately generated perpendicular to the boom. Both the Standard and Radial sails should not be two-blocked
Sideways slippage occurs perpendicular to the length of the if the wind is very light (less than 5 knots) or exceptionally
hull. These two forces combine to create forward momentum. heavy wind (over 20 knots) when traveling to windward.
When the sail is over-trimmed the sideways slippage force But in all other conditions, VMG (Velocity Made Good) is
increases while decreasing the forward force. This causes usually achieved by two-blocking the sail during the beat to
the force on the sail to shift aft and the boat begins to slow windward. VMG is the concept that there is an optimal
and slide sideways more. When under-trimmed, both the balance between speed and angle sailed. When beating to
sideway slippage and lift decrease, which results in less windward a vessel increases speed as it falls off from a
forward momentum. close-hauled course, but also increases the distance

Wind
necessary to travel to windward. Therefore a vessel that
points higher to the wind will lose speed, but decrease the
distance traveled. For a Laser the loss of speed from two-
blocking the sail is negligible compared to the amount of
distance cut from the overall trip. When beating to
Under Trimmed: Luffing windward in most conditions the skipper should two-block
the mainsheet and then steer the boat to the edge of the
wind using the tell-tales.

When sailing on all points of sail other than close-hauled

the mainsheet is only used to control the angle of attack and
F
not the curvature of the mast. Therefore the sail should be

Sailing II: Laser

L
S trimmed to the tell-tales whenever possible.

Perfect Trim Cunningham:

The Cunningham, or downhaul as it is commonly called,
affects the entire shape of the sail by placing tension on the
luff. When Cunningham tension is increased the draft of the
sail moves forward. The draft is the deepest part of the sail.
F The entire sail flattens as Cunningham tension is increased
and the top third of the sail twists off. Twist is the amount
L
S the leech sags off relative to an imaginary straight line
Over Trimmed: Stalled between the clew and head of the sail. This added twist to
the sail allows wind to spill off the top, thereby depowering
the sail.

Therefore placing more Cunningham tension depowers the

sail. Since it has the greatest effect on the top third of the
F sail, where the most rotational heeling force is found, it is
F=Forward Drive
a best to begin depowering the sail using the Cunningham
S=Sideways Force L
S first.
L=Lift
When sailing upwind, your mainsheet is initially used to Cunningham off Cunningham on
change the angle of attack (the angle between the sail and
the apparent wind) of the sail to produce optimal lift. On a
Laser the mainsheet can bring the boom to the aft corner of
the stern but no further if the traveler is tight. At this point Depth
there is still 15-18 inches of mainsheet that can be sheeted-
in. These last 18 inches will bend the mast to aft, but does
not change the angle of attack because it cannot bring the Twist
boom any further inboard. This action flattens the sail and
thus decreases power, but allows the vessel to point closer
to the wind.
“Waves are not measured in feet or inches, they are measured in
increments of fear.”
—Buzzy Trent

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 Boom Vang:
The boom vang, or “kicker” is a unique sail control that can Maximum depth
be used to add power or depower the sail. of sail for
When sailing upwind in a moderate breeze the sail is generally
close-hauled
two-blocked. If a large gust occurs the natural reaction of a course
sailor who wishes to keep the boat flat and avoid a capsize is
to ease the mainsheet. If the boom vang is “on” when two-
blocked (the slack is taken out of the line), then when the
mainsheet is eased the boom will not rise, but instead will go
outwards. This will change the angle of attack and thus
depowers the sail by spilling air. Traveler:
The traveler is the least adjusted sail control line while on
Conversely if the boom vang is not “on” when two-blocked the water. The traveler should be kept tight in almost all
(there is slack), then when the mainsheet is eased the boom conditions and only adjusted if it loosens while sailing. A
will rise first before moving to leeward. This means the sail tight traveler allows the skipper to gain maximum tension on
becomes rounder and fuller. Thus in a gust, easing the sail the luff when she two-blocks the mainsheet during a beat to
when the vang is “off” causes the boat to heel farther! This windward. A tight traveler has virtually no effect when
in effect powers the boat up! traveling off wind. In very light air, when the traveler block
has difficulty going over the tiller, it is acceptable to loosen
Sailing II: Laser

This concept of powering the boat up is useful when sailing the traveler slightly to make your tacks and gybes easier.
in light air. If the vang is off, then when the vessel enters a
lull (less air), it is beneficial to ease the mainsheet as this will
give the vessel power to the sail through the light spot and
remain flat.

The boom vang is also very important for sailing offwind.

The boom vang controls the height of the boom on all points
of sail other than close-hauled.

On a reach the boom vang is generally set to match the top

batten with the angle of the boom in light and medium winds.
Traveler
The vang is loosened as the wind increases to keep the
boom from dragging in the water.

Vang controls Clew Tie Down:

height of boom The clew tie down is not adjustable while on the water. It
allows the mainsheet to put maximum tension on the leech of
on downwind the sail when two-blocked. The clew tie down should be tied
course as close to the boom as possible before you set sail; but it
should not bind to the boom so that the outhaul is
ineffective.

Vang

Outhaul:
The outhaul controls the depth of the foot of the sail. When
sailing upwind the maximum depth in the foot of the sail
should be roughly the distance from your wrist to the tip of
your extended middle finger. The sail can become deeper the Clew Tie Down
farther off wind you are sailing. The sail should be no deeper
than 15 inches when on a run.
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Knots: Intermediate
Bowline
The bowline is a knot most commonly used to form a fixed loop in the end of a line. It is reliable, strong, stable, does not slip
or loosen while under tension and can be easily untied when tension is removed. The bowline was once the knot used on
square rigged boats to attach a line from the bow of a ship to the weather leech of a square sail, but has since expanded its
use to a variety of tasks where a temporary loop is needed. The bowline has literally dozens of variations; each for a specific
task. Once you have learned the most simple version the others will be easy to pick up.

Standing Loop with Standing End

End Working Working End
End on
Working End
top of
Standing
End

Working End

Sailing II: Laser

1. Form a loop with the Working End 2. Pass Working End through loop 3. Pass Working End around Standing End

Working End
Working End

4. Pass Working End through loop 5. Pull Working End taut 6. Completed bowline

Sheet Bend
The sheet bend originally was used to attach the sheets to the clew on a sail. Now it is used to join two lines of different
thicknesses and should be used when securing your vessel to the dock.

Working End

Working End

1. Form a loop with 2. Bring the end of the 3. Pass the working 4. Pull the working 5. Pull the standing
one line. other line through the end of the second line end of the second line parts of both ropes
loop around the standing through the loop. sideways to tighten
end of the first line. knot.

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 Double Overhand knot
The double overhand knot is a variation of the simple over hand knot which is the most elementary of stopper knots. It is
used at the end of a line to stop it from running through a block, in this case your mainsheet. On the Laser this knot is more
secure than a figure eight stopper knot because of the material the mainsheet is made out of: polilite.
Working End

Working End Working End

Working End
Working End

1. Pass the Working 2. Take the Working 3. Bring the Working 4. Pass the Working 5. Pull the Working
End around your End from the back of End to the inside of End through the two End taut.
hand. your hand and pass it your hand. loops you have
around a second time. formed.

Hitches
Sailing II: Laser

A hitch is a knot used for tying a rope to another object. There are a variety of hitches used in sailing and it is most often
seen while setting up a temporary mooring. For the Laser, a series of hitches are used to secure the bow of the boat to the
dolly and is finished with a half hitch.

Pass painter through

bowline on the bow Make a series of figure
Pass painter around dolly
eight hitches
handles

Make a loop with the Pull taut

Working End

Coiling a Line
Line should be cared for to ensure extended use. All the lines on a Laser should be coiled (wound loosely) in order to
protect them from unnecessary wear as well as to make it easier for the next sailor to use. A simple coil is demonstrated
below for the mainsheet.

Bite

1. Begin by 2. Leave 3. Pinch the 4. Make at least 5. Make a 6. Pass the 7. Pass a 8. Pull the
making about two center of the 3 loops around bite with the bite through loop over Working End
counter feet of line coil and wrap the center mov- Working End the top of the back of taut.
clockwise uncoiled the Working ing towards the the coil the coil
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Tacking: Use of Tiller
Tacking is the first fundamental boat handling skill one should learn in a Laser. Because the boat is light, it carries very little
momentum; so it is important to have speed before initiating your tack! The long tiller extension generally is the greatest
impediment for new sailors to the class as it can be difficult to handle. Below is a basic tack with no roll induced. For a more
advanced tack see the roll tack section (page 112-113)

Before tacking one should always check to windward and 3.The boat will begin to turn into the wind. As it does so
over your front shoulder to be sure it is clear. One must continue pushing the tiller across the boat until you can
always be certain that she is turning into a space that is not place your aft hand and the extension on the old leeward
already occupied. side of the boat. It is generally necessary to bend the tiller
extension at the flexible joint so that the mainsheet does
1. While on a close-hauled course, keep your boat flat and not stop you from pushing the tiller across the boat.
get some speed before initiating the tack.

Sailing II: Laser

Aft hand on
deck helps
with balance

Flat boat on close-

hauled course

2. Gently push the tiller extension AWAY with the aft hand.
4. Wait for the boom to come centerline, and then cross
the boat with your aft foot first.

Sailor pivots on aft foot while

ALWAYS facing forward during
the tack. Aft hand on deck helps
with balance

Tiller is over to
leeward side

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 5. Rotate your body so that your aft foot is now the forward
foot. Switch the tiller
hand first

8. Release the tiller with the old hand and take hold of the
mainsheet with it. Then release the mainsheet with the new
aft hand that is holding the tiller.
Sailing II: Laser

6. Sit down on the new windward side and straighten out

the tiller behind your back.

9. Get back into your proper position.

Forward hand straightens

out tiller behind the back
BEFORE switching hands

7. Reach back with your new aft hand (the one still holding
the mainsheet) and stick out your index finger to make a
gun. The mainsheet should still be held by the bottom three
fingers. Place the tiller extension between your index finger
and thumb.
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Gybing
Gybing is often more feared than tacking due to the speed at which the boom can cross the boat in heavy air. Yet gybing
is easier than tacking in light to moderate air because of the pressure felt on the sail during all but a fraction of the
maneuver. The key to gybing is keeping speed before and after the turn. Below is a basic gybe with no roll induced.
For a more advanced gybe see pages 114-115.
Before gybing one should always check to leeward to be 3. Reach up with your forward hand and grab the mainsheet
sure it is clear. A sailor must be certain that he is turning into near the block on the boom.
a space that is not already occupied! When learning to gybe
it is easier to gybe from a broad reach to a broad reach so
this is how a novice sailor should first practice.

1. Bring the boat flat and sheet in slightly if you are on a

deep broad reach or a run (sheet in 1-2 feet).
Control the
gybe with the
mainsheet

Sailing II: Laser

4. Give the mainsheet a yank once you feel the sail lose
pressure (right before the boom is ready to gybe). This will
allow you to control when the boom crosses the boat.

2. Start to bear away by pulling the tiller extension

TOWARD you. The boat will begin to roll on top of you as
the boat begins to turn if there is any breeze. Make sure
your aft foot is braced against the side of the cockpit in
case the boat rolls excessively so that you can quickly climb
to the high side if necessary.

I must go down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,
And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by,
And the wheel’s kick and the wind’s song and the white sail’s shaking,
Pull the tiller And a grey mist on the sea’s face and a grew dawn breaking.
towards you I must go down to the seas again, for the call ofthe running tide
Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied;
And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying,
And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.

— John Masefiled, Sea Fever

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 5. As the boom begins to cross the boat, move your body to 8. Make sure your sail is trimmed properly for the new
the new windward side. course.

Sit on the new windward

side to balance the boat

6. Begin to flatten the boat by putting yourself on the new

windward side and straighten the tiller behind your back.
Sailing II: Laser

Aboard at a ship's helm,

Steer behind the back A young steersman steering with care.

Through fog on a sea-coast dolefully ringing,

An ocean-bell--O a warning bell, rock'd by the waves.

7. Bring the hand holding your mainsheet back to grab hold

O you give good notice indeed, you bell by the sea-reefs ringing,
of the tiller. Then release the tiller with the old hand and take
Ringing, ringing, to warn the ship from its wreck-place.
the mainsheet with that hand.

For as on the alert O steersman, you mind the loud admonition,

The bows turn, the freighted ship tacking speeds away under her
gray sails,
The beautiful and noble ship with all her precious wealth speeds
away gayly and safe.

Switch hands
But O the ship, the immortal ship! O ship aboard the ship!
Ship of the body, ship of the soul, voyaging, voyaging, voyaging.

—Walt Whitman

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Dry Capsize Recovery: Walkover
Due to the relatively small width of the boat a dry capsize recovery is easily executed in a windward capsize. The key to
executing a dry capsize recovery is anticipating the capsize and correctly timing when to throw one’s leg over the gunwale
of the boat.
As the boat begins to heel to leeward due to excessive
breeze a sailor must decide when hiking further or releasing
the mainsheet will not be able to save the boat from a capsize.
Generally speaking if the boat has heeled over to the point
that the top of the mast is only three feet from the water a
capsize will occur. Once the sailor has made the decision to
execute a dry capsize she must be decisive in regard to
staying dry.

1. The boat begins to heel beyond the point of no return,

and the sailor climbs to the high side of the boat.
4. The sailor moves his weight out onto the daggerboard so
that the boat begins to right.
Mast rises out

Sailing II: Laser

of water

2. The sailor throws a leg over the gunwale of the boat and 5. The sailor throws his aft leg over the gunwale to step into
straddles the hull. the boat.

Straddle the hull

6. The sailor keeps his head low and ducks the boom while
stabilizing the boat with his weight. He immediately grabs
the tiller and takes control of the vessel.

Take hold of
tiller for control

3. The sailor steps onto the daggerboard and checks to see

if the mainsheet is free.
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 Rigging: Laser
SAIL SELECTION: The International Laser Class has three different official rigs. Each sail is designed for sailors of
different weights. The Standard Rig was designed for sailors weighing more than 160 lbs and has 76 square feet of sail. The
Radial Rig, which has 62 square feet of sail, was designed for sailors in the weight range of 121 to 160 lbs. The 4.7 Rig, which
has 50.6 square feet of sail (4.7 square meters of sail), was designed for sailors within the weight range of 77 to 121 lbs. The
weight ranges listed above are ‘optimal.’ This means that a sailor in the prescribed weight range is best suited to sail the
matching rig in a variety of wind conditions (3 to 20 knots). A sailor outside of the listed range may sail a different rig in the
appropriate conditions. At the UCLA MAC we have both the Standard and Radial Rigs available. The reduced sail area of
a Radial Rig allows a novice or lighter sailor the ability to sail without being overpowered in medium winds. The
International Laser Class strictly controls how sailboats are rigged during official races. For the convenience of learning to
sail, the UCLA MAC Lasers are rigged in a non-class legal manner. To learn more about the Class Legal Racing please visit
the North American Laser Class Association at www.laser.org.

Standard vs Radial Rig 2. Retrieve a Laser Dolly. Place the dolly wheels
The principle difference between the Standard and Radial approximately 3-4 feet to the left of the boat slot (in the
rig is the length of the bottom section. The Radial rig uses middle of the slot two numbers below the one you are taking.)
a shorter, bendier lower mast section. The Radial lower mast
sections are marked with a thick red stripe and the letter “R”
Sailing II: Laser

above the boom vang tang for easy identification. Both rigs
use the same top mast section and are rigged identically.

The Standard and Radial sails are on separate parts of the

sail rack and are labeled accordingly.

Rigging in the Yard

Most of the rigging for the Laser is done in the yard and
boat house. You should only move the boat onto the dock
and into the water when you are ready to sail. With a little
practice you should be able to rig and be off sailing in under
15 minutes.

When rigging, thoroughly inspect your equipment to make

sure everything is in good working order. You can use the
lawn or the deck of your Laser or even the carpet inside the
boathouse (if there is room) for rigging your sail.

1. Select a boat from the rack. Boats numbered 1-8 are for
anyone who has completed Sailing II. Boats numbered 9-12
have the “Pro-Rigging” and are reserved for those who have
completed Sailing III. Dolly wheels in slot
#8 for Boat #10

3. Lower the boat onto a dolly. Ask for help if you need
it--- it is much better than dropping the boat on your head!
It is best to keep your right hand on the gunwale of the
boat and your left hand on the hull while pulling it out of
the slot. Once the boat is out of the slot place both hands
centered on the hull, and lock your arms out so that you
can walk the boat down onto the dolly. Walk backwards, but
be cautious of the dolly so that you do not trip.
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 6. Remove the stern dolly (the wood piece with two
orange wheels). Place one hand on the stern dolly while
pressing your thigh against it when removing the dolly
pin. This will stop the dolly from dropping to the ground
and breaking. Leave the stern dolly (the wood piece with
two wheels) and its pin in the slot the boat came from.

Arms locked out

Sailing II: Laser

4. Gently lower the hull onto your shoulders and then Stern Dolly
squat down to place the hull onto the dolly strap.

7. Retrieve a boom, top mast section and appropriate

bottom section. The spar numbers MUST match the
number of the hull.

5. Place the bow of the boat onto the curved plastic bow
retainer, and then secure the boat using the painter with a
series of half hitches. Please see intermediate knot section
of the manual for instructions on how to tie a half hitch.

Bow Retainer

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 8. Insert the drain plug into the transom and seal the hull 11. Take the top and bottom sections of the mast to the
by turning it clockwise. boat house. Insert the top section into the bottom section.
Make sure to align the rivet with the gooseneck (failure
to do this may cause the top mast section to break at the
rivet collar).

Rivet

Drain Plug

9. Gently place a daggerboard, tiller and rudder in the

cockpit of the Laser. The numbers on the Blades
(daggerboard and rudder) must match the hull of the vessel.
Sailing II: Laser

Gooseneck

10. Attach the boom to the traveler via the brummel 12. Retrieve the appropriate sail from the sail rack. Check
hooks (sister clips). Make sure that there is no twist in the out a set of battens from the dockmaster that matches your
mainsheet. hull number. The top batten is shorter than the middle and
bottom battens which are identical in length. Insert the
curved end of the batten into the batten pocket and
then pinch the end of the non-curved batten until it slides
down into the batten pocket.

No Twist

Brummel Pinch Batten Down

Hooks Insert Batten

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13. Slide the sail onto the mast using the luff sleeve. 16. Attach the clew hook to the sail. Always pass the hook
Ensure that the body of the sail is on the same side as the from the starboard side first!
gooseneck.

Clew hook

Luff Sleeve

17. Attach the boom vang to the boom by placing the vang
key into the vang fitting on the boom.

14. Place the bow of the boat into the wind. Take the mast
out of the boat bay and place it onto the deck of the boat.
Carefully place the mast into the maststep. Be careful not to
allow the mast to drop or swing as it will damage the gelcoat
of the deck. If you are uncertain of your ability to control

Sailing II: Laser

the mast ask for help. Other sailors and the dockmaster
are always available to help.
Vang Key

18. Attach the cunningham. Pass the thinner spectra line

through the cunningham grommet. Use the snap shackle on
the Vang to secure the Cunningham.

ion
irect
D
nd
Wi Cunningham
Grommet

15. Place the boom connector onto the gooseneck.

Gooseneck

Snap Shackle

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 19. Pass the other end of the Cunningham to the block 22.Then take the line and pass it through the outhaul
at the base of the mast on the port side of the boat. block at the base of the mast on the starboard side.

Outhaul Deck Block

Cunningham
Deck Block

23. Secure the outhaul line through the starboard cam

cleat and create a handle via the daisy chain method as
seen in the advanced knots section of the manual.
20. Take the Cunningham line and pass it to the deck
cleat (first through the metal fairlead and then into the cam
Sailing II: Laser

cleat). Place a stopper knot at the end of the line. Please

note that rigging the Cunningham correctly is important
because it is used to keep your mast attached to the boat
Outhaul Deck Cleat
when the vessel capsizes!

Cunningham Deck Cleat

24. Attach the mast retention line that is secured to the
gooseneck fitting to the deck fitting at the base of the mast.
Please note that for boats 1-8, if the Cunningham is not
secured properly the mast will slide out of the mast step and
sink when the boat is turtled. For boats 9-12 the Cunningham
line will ‘help’ secure the mast to the vessel, but due to the
lower amount of friction achieved by the blocks used in the
system an additional line is necessary to keep the mast
secure.

21. Take the outhaul line and pass it through the block
secured to the gooseneck fitting.

Mast
Outhaul Forward Block Retention
Hook

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25.Uncoil the mainsheet, but do not attach it to the 27. Angle your boat so that the stern is just at the edge of
mainsheet block. Instead add a figure eight at the bitter end the dock, but not over the water.
so that it will not come loose when walking your boat down
the ramp. Walk your vessel down the ramp stern first.
The mast will begin to catch air and will rotate. As long as
your mainsheet is not attached the boat will not be pushed
off the dolly by the wind. It is best to hold the bitter end of
the mainsheet in your right hand so that you can take the
slack out of the mainsheet if the wheels of your dolly are
close to catching the dragging mainsheet.

28.Attach the rudder of your boat by inserting the pintles

into the gudgeon. Make sure the rudder stop is securely
over the lower pintle section so that the rudder will not be
lost during a capsize/inversion.

Sailing II: Laser

Rotated Mast

Pintle

Gudgeon
W
ind

Rudder Stop
Di
rec
tio
n

26. Keep the front end of your dolly low as you approach
the bottom of the ramp. If you raise the front end of your
dolly high the stern of the boat will scrape against the dock
as you reach the end of the ramp. 29. Place the tiller under the aft traveler line but above the
forward traveler line. Then put the tiller into the rudder head
and tighten the rudder downhaul.

Under
Over

Front End of Dolly is Low

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 30. Push the dolly wheels up to the edge of the dock so
that the wheels touch the wooden lip.

Wheels touch edge

of dock

31. Untie the painter and gently lift the bow of the boat up
until the stern is floating in the water. Then push the boat
out until you can gently lower the bow into the water. Use
your legs to lift, not your back.
34. Attach the daggerboard retention line from the bow
Sailing II: Laser

to the daggerboard.

Daggerboard
Retention line

32. Tie the painter to the dock with a sheet bend. See the
intermediate knot tying section for instructions on how to 35. Pass the mainsheet through the mainsheet block
tie a sheet bend. and secure using a double overhand knot. The mainsheet
only passes through the mainsheet block in one direction.
You will know you have passed it in the correct direction
if you can hear the ratchet click as you sheet in. If there is
no clicking sound while you are sheeting in then either you
have passed the mainsheet through the incorrect side or
the ratchet block has been set to “off” and must be adjusted.

Sheet Bend

Ratchet sound made

36. Check your rigging and make sure the mainsheet is

running free and the tiller is clear. Adjust your sail controls
for the expected wind conditions. Launch and enjoy the
33. Insert the daggerboard into the daggerboard trunk. water!
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DERIGGING: Laser
DERIGGING THE LASER: To protect the boat and equipment it is important that you get the sail down and the boat out
of the water without delay. Once the sail is down and the boat out of the water you can then take your time with derigging.
While derigging note any damage that may have occurred while sailing and report it to the Dockmaster.

1. Secure your vessel to the dock using a sheet bend (see 4. Release the daggerboard retention line from the
page 56). daggerboard. Then remove the daggerboard from the trunk
and place it gently in the cockpit.

Sheet Bend

Sailing II: Laser

2. Detach the boom. First release any tension that is on
your boom vang. Then remove the clew hook from the back
of the sail while firmly holding the boom so that it does
not drop onto the deck.

5. Retrieve your dolly from the ramp and place it to leeward

of your vessel.

Clew hook
Wind

3. Walk your hands along the boom until you reach the
6. Untie the painter and then grab the bow of the boat. While
gooseneck and remove the boom from the mast. Place the
holding the bitter end of the painter begin to rotate the hull
boom on the deck. Take the vang key out of the boom. Use
until it is near perpendicular to the dock. The bow should
an overhand knot to secure the vang lines. This will keep the
now be closest to the dock.
lines from fouling.

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 7. Squat down and place both your hands under the bow. 10. Pull down on the bow until the stern lifts out of the
Lift the bow up using your legs not your back. If you are water. If the bow is not far enough forward on the dolly you
strong enough to press the bow over your head do so. must pull the boat towards you.

11. Place the bow of the boat onto the lip of the dolly and
then tie off using hitches (see page 56).
Sailing II: Laser

8. Begin walking the hull onto the dolly.

12. Gently pull the boat forward; be careful not to lift the
bow or the rudder will strike the dock. Pull forward until
the rudder is over the dock. Remove the tiller and rudder
9. Place your leeward foot onto the dolly when you are and lay them gently into the cockpit.
half way. This will stop the dolly from moving when the
hull contacts the dolly’s strap.

Foot on dolly
Rudder over
dock
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13. Remove the drain plug from the stern. 16. Take the mast back to the hull of your boat. Rinse off
the boat, blades and spars while paying special attention to
anywhere there is metal on the boat.

Drain Plug

14. Pull the boat up the ramp. If it is low tide you should go 17. Coil all the lines: mainsheet and Cunningham.
up at an angle to make it easier. Remove the Cunningham
from the deck cleat and lift the mast out of the mast step.

Sailing II: Laser

18. Return the spars and blades to the appropriate racks.
Spars are numbered 1-12.

15. Take the mast and sail into the boat house. Then gently
pull the sail off the mast. Be careful not to pull too hard or the
top piece of the mast may get lodged in the luff sleeve.

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 19. Attach the stern dolly to the vessel. 22. Lay the sail flat.

20. Make sure the wheels of the stern dolly are in the
correct slot to return the boat. Untie the painter and lift the
bow up. The stern dolly should catch the ground and be 23. Fold the sail in half and align the leech.
secure. Gently lift the boat until it is almost vertical, and
then begin sliding it into the appropriately numbered slot.
Sailing II: Laser

24. Begin rolling the sail.

21. Return the dolly to the dolly area.

25. Place sail in the appropriate bag and back on the rack.
Dolly Area Standard sail bags have a black tip while Radial sail bags
have a red tip.

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