Since the Predynastic days kings were buried here, and this was the place where pilgrims travelled from all over ancient Kemet to take part of the Mysteries of Osiris, which were acted out every year. These "Passion Plays" recreated the life, murder and resurrection of Osiris, and his enthronement in the Afterlife. His spouse Isis and her sister Nephtys both play an important part in the proceedings. In the ancient times, people travelled to Abydos like they now do to Mekka, for more than one reason. One was that the tomb of Osiris was thought to be here, out in the desert. Another reason was that going to Abedjou and even being buried at Abedjou was an insurance of Eternal Life.

Abydos, or Abedjou, is located some 50 km from Sohaq in Upper Egypt on the west bank of the Nile. It began its career as the most important cult center in ancient Egypt in the Predynastic days. In this area tombs of a number of significant early rulers of Egypt were excavated. Popularity as a royal burial ground continued into the Early Dynasties, and onwards throughout all the historic periods, featuring names such as Aha, Merneith, Narmer, Peribsen, Mentuhotep, Thutmose III, Seti I, Ramesses II and Amasis to name a few. By time it became a popular burial ground also for others than kings and it became the custom to have a cenotaph or stela erected. Several animal necropolii have been found here, (ibis, dogs, falcons) one of which was in use as late as during the Ptolemaic Period,

The area has given us a wide variety of finds ranging from small vase fragments, to vast numbers of stelae and whole temples showing vital activity from the 1st Dynasty throughout and including the Late Period. It is thought that not far from here the half-mythical town of This, or Thinis, was situated, which might well have served as a cultural, royal or administrative center during the earliest phase of ancient Egyptian civilisation.

The most reknown and most frequently visited sight at Abedjou is the Temple of Seti I, the architecture of which is not only unusual compared to other New Kingdom temples, but its reliefs are of an outstanding level of craftsmanship. They far surpass any other reliefs from any time period. Behind this temple is the 'Osireion', which purpose is the cause of some debate.

The Abedjou "Fetish" and Standards.
Chapel of Osiris, Temple of Seti I. Photo: author.

Some other places of interest include the Middle Kingdom settlement, now mostly buried under the village of Kom el-Sultan, where also the early Temple to Osiris/KentAmentiu was situated. There is the desert fortress Shunet el-Zebib, where incidentally also King Khasekhemwy is buried along with his boats, and close by: the "Mother of Pots" - Umm el Qaab, where the ground is covered with thousands of potsherds, all once offerings to the the Tomb of Osiris and to all Ancestors. You can visit the Mortuary Temple of Ramesses II, also that one with wonderful reliefs, or stroll around the surroundings looking for cenotaphs and stelae, or why not make an excursion to Thinis, the legendary home of the first kings. At the end of the day, you might want to go to Nefer Heifer, the small corner of the Nile which time (thankfully?) forgot, and relax with friends.