Assembly Manual for the µSDX „Sandwich“ Design by DL2MAN (Software by PE1NNZ)

The µSDX is a simple but very efficient QRP Multimode Shortwave Transceiver, that is able to transmit and receive SSB, CW, AM and FM.
It can be configured for any Shortwave Band by exchanging/modifying RF PCB. Now even as Multiband Rig with switchable Low-Pass
Filters.

LICENSE:
The uSDX (Basic Schematic and Software by Guido; PE1NNZ – PCB Design, Layout and Class E Muliband Circuit by Manuel; DL2MAN) is
free to use, alter and built
FOR NON COMMERCIAL USE ONLY !
If you alter the PCB Layout or the Source Code, the Source must be mentioned if re-published. The same applies for re-publishing it un-
altered. Name the source !
R&D took a lot of our free time, and a lot of our hard earned money. We´re happy to share the results for free with you, but won´t
accept, if people make money out of other peoples work.
People interested in commercial use of this Product (or Parts of it), need to ask for permission (DL2MAN@gmx.de for Hardware,
pe1nnz@amsat.org for Software) .

New Software will be released here: https://github.com/threeme3/QCX-SSB

Discussion about this Project here: https://groups.io/g/ucx/topic/sdxbreakoutboard/75316472?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate
%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,75316472

The DL2MAN „Sandwich“ Design was developed to be able to do changes and add on´s without re-inventing the wheel every time. Kind
of a modular concept, which proofed to be working, when you look at the development history. From Monoband „Ghetto“ over Multiband
„Ghetto“ to Serial Resonance Class E Multiband with 80 PLUS % Efficiency. The circuit is devided into 3 PCB´s in Size of a Credit Card
(85x55mm) so it´s easier to change things in future, and the size was chosen to proof how small it could be built. The uSDX could be
even built smaller, but for now I want to stay at that form-factor.

We have
1. Main PCB (with AtMega, PLL, Multiplexer, OpAmp and NAND Gates, Basically the complete RX/TX Core)
2. IO-PCB (With all Knobs, Rotary Encoder, Audio and Mic/Key Jacks)
3. RF PCB with PA and 5 switchable highly efficient, tuned serial resonance, Class E circuits (80m/60m/40m/30m/20m)
IO PCB is Top of the Sandwich, Mainboard is middle and RF PCB is bottom in the final assembly.

PCB´s are beeing connected via standard Jumper Headers and Sockets in 2,54mm/0,1“ Spacing.
The Main PCB requires special „stackable“ Headers, that have „male“ and „female“ connector, so we can connect the other PCB´s from
both sides.
The Main-PCB was re-designed into 4-Layers, so there is a complete GND and VCC Layer between the visible Layers. This is not
neccessary, but helps in avoiding Ground Loops and reduces Noise in RX of our digital TRX.

The PCB´s are mechanically stabelized by Spacers in M3 Threading. Use metal spacers (no Nylon), so they will provide additional GND
Connection between PCB´s and are very handy to connect for example Oszilloscope GND for measurement.

Where to get PCB´s ?

The PCB´s can be ordered from https://jlcpcb.com/ by uploading the zipped Gerber Files from the „PCB-Files“ Folder.
The Process starts with the PCB Dimensions (55x85mm), choosing 2 Layers in case of IO PCB and 4 Layers in case of Main PCB and RF
PCB.
Thickness 1,6mm is standard and will do the job.
They Gerber Files do not need to be unpacked. Just upload the Zip File in the next step.
Each zip File is one PCB. The Gerber Files were all tested, and the resulting PCB´s from JLCPCB were perfect.
From my own observation, it made most sense to order 10 PCB´s each, because this way it was cheapest.
Usually there will be other HAM´s around, asking if anybody has a set of spare PCB, so you probably won´t end up keeping them.
Otherwise you can just ask in groups.io, if somebody wants to buy your spare PCB´s.
Please keep in mind, this is an open source project (other peoples development work, which you can use for free), and I´d appreciate if
you just charge your expenses (Non Profit). Keep the HAM Spirit High !
Where to get the Parts ?
I´ve tried to make ordering of the Parts as easy as possible by providing complete „shopping baskets“ at mouser.com
Mouser has almost every component, most of them in stock and ships virtually anywhere in the world.
Everything exept the toroids can be bought at mouser.

This is the complete Mouser „Shopping Cart“ for uSDX Mainboard (including Designators):
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=8690f61c05

This is the complete Mouser „Shopping Cart“ for uSDX IO-Board (including Designators):
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=85157a5769

This is the complete Mouser „Shopping Cart“ for uSDX Multi Band serial resonance RF Board (including Designators):
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1ba9350d9

Those 3 shopping carts contain every part you need to built 1 complete DL2MAN Sandwich.
EXEPT for the Toroids....
Additional to those carts you need 10x Micrometals or Amidon T37-2 (Red) and 1x FT37-43 (Black)
Please do not order chinese Toroids from ebay or aliexpress, otherwise you will probably see problems with efficiency.
Like the capacitors on the RF Board, the use of High Quality Toroids (Original Micrometals or Amidon) is critical to success !
In America, they can be ordered from https://www.kitsandparts.com/
In Europe, they can be ordered from https://www.reichelt.de/

In case you have an alternative Source, or the Parts in Stock, it´s easy to remove parts after adding the cart to your order.
It´s also very easy to order each cart multiple times, if you make group buy or want to built more.

Tips:
– The Display is very expensive at mouser. You can find them cheaper at reichelt.de or on ebay sometimes
– The SMA Connector is also relatively expensive. I´ve used chinese Edge Mount SMA Connectors from ebay. The ones that are supplied
with the Si5351 Breakout Boards
– You still need copper enamel wire (I use 0,4mm Diameter for all of my coils)
– The relays come and go, so any IM43 J and G Type will work. I´ve adjusted the Footprint to accept both. (J = SMT J-Leg, G = SMT Gull
Wing)
– In worst case you can even use IM42 J or G. Coil code 42 is for 4,5 V Type latching and should still work.
– Gull Wings are easier to Hand solder. Keep that in mind, when you can chose.
Tools required:
– Good Soldering Iron with not too big Tip, but also no needle Tip. My preferred Tip is 2,6mm wide.
– Side cutter
– Stable Tweezers with very small tip
– Flux !
– Good eyes, or alternatively magnification Glass / Microsope
– calm hands ;)

Optional (but not required):

– Stencil for Mainboard and Multiband Board
– Soldering Paste and Reflow Oven

With every new built, I start with Main PCB, as it has the most parts on it.
Some building advice and Project Demonstration can be found in this Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQI9Y6VXzl8&t=3s

Ordering a stencil (together with PCB) and using solder paste and reflow oven can accelerate built time significantly, but it is not
neccessary. All the Parts can be soldered by Hand if you just apply the right technique.
An assembly tutorial with tips will be released soon.
Old Manual Text: (Will be reworked soon)
Apply solder paste with stencil, and place all Capacitors (without electrolytic Caps), resistors and Inductances. Place SMT IC´s.
Solder them in reflow Oven.
Hand Solder electrolytic Caps, Crystals and THT IC´s (including 7805), I suggest use of IC Socket at Least for the AT Mega µ-Controller.
Hand Solder BF170 and Power Jack.
From the Stackable Connector Kit, use the 6Pin and 8Pin Connectors, to create 2x 14 Pin (IO Header 1 and 2).
Male Connectors should be on the side, where the THT IC´s are and where the Power Jack is.
Use a file, or Sand Paper, to remove a little bit of the Plastic, where the 6 and 8 Pin Connectors have contact to each other, so they will fit
in the 14 Pin Header Holes without force.
Try to solder them in as straight as possible, and try to solder only close to PCB. After placing the ATMega into Socket, you can Power it
up and Program it with an Arduino UNO as ISP.
Mainboard: Component Count: 71
Ref Qnty Value Description
C1, C16, C21, C23, C24, C25, C27, 7 10n Capacitor SMT 0805 X7R
C2, C4, C10, C13, C14, C15, C17, C19, C20, C26, C28, C29, C30, 13 100n Capacitor SMT 0805 X7R
C3, C9, C18, C22, 4 10µ Capacitor electrolytic SMT
C5, C6, C7, C8, 4 470n Capacitor SMT 0805 X7R
C11, C12, 2 1n Capacitor SMT 0805 X7R
D1, D2, 2 1N4148 1N4148
H1, H2, H3, H4, 4 MountingHole_Pad MountingHole_Pad
J1, 1 Power_IN Terminal Block_Phoenix
J2, 1 IO_Header_1 Cut from Adafruit Accessories 36pin
J3, 1 IO_Header_2 Stacking Header 5 pack
L1, L2, 2 100µ Fixed Inductor SMT Size 1210
Q1, 1 BS170 BS170
R1, R14, R15, R16, 4 1k Resistor SMT 0805
R2, R3, R10, R11, R12, R13, R17, R18, R19, R20, R21, 11 10k Resistor SMT 0805
R4, R5, R6, R7, 4 100 Resistor SMT 0805
R8, R9, 2 82k Resistor SMT 0805 0,1%
U1, 1 FST3253MX FST3253 TSSOP-16 Package
U2, 1 L7805 7805 in TO220 Package
U3, 1 LM4562 LM4562 in DIP-8 Package
U4, 1 74ACT00 74ACT00 ins DIP-14 Package
U5, 1 Si5351A-B-GT Si5351A-B-GT in MSOP-10 Package
U6, 1 ATmega328-PU Atmega328-PU in DIP-28 Package
Y1, 1 27MHz Crystal in HC49-US Package
Y2, 1 20MHz Crystal in HC49-US Package
Continue with IO Board:
This built is actually pretty straight forward. Start with hand soldering the smaller parts (Resistors), Leave out R6 to save another 10mA
of RX Current.
This resistor is for LCD Background illumination, but it´s not needed if you have green LCD. It can be read without.
Continue with Poti, Mic, Buttons.
Then you need to solder in J1 and J2 (You need to do this before soldering Display, otherwise solder joints cannot be reached anymore).
Then solder in Dispaly and rotary encoder.
The on-Board Mic (MK1) is a standard electret type capsule. It is beeing disconnected, when a plug is inserted in Key/Mic Jack.

Note: One of the 4 Spacers is below display and cannot be fit with M3 Screw. So this one is only a spacer. The other 3 also aid in
mechanical stabilisation and GND Connection.
Note 2:You should bend the metal clamps of the frame on the backside of the LCD a little, to avoid contact with the IO Header.
IO PCB
SW4 1 Rotary_Encoder_SWRotaryEncoder_Alps_EC11E-Switch
H3,H4,H2,H1 4 MountingHole_Pad Spacer 10mm, M3 Threading Male/Female
MK1 1 EMY-9765P Condenser Microphone
J1 1 IO_Header_1 Use „breakable“ male Pin headers.
J2 1 IO_Header_2 Use „breakable“ male Pin headers.
R1 1 3,3k Resistor, SMT, 0805
R2,R6 2 1k Resistor, SMT, 0805 (Leave Out R6 for no Background illumination)
R3 1 10k Resistor, SMT, 0805
R5 1 270 Resistor, SMT, 0805
SW2 1 Left Print Push Button_6mm_H5mm
SW3 1 Right Print Push Button_6mm_H5mm
J3 1 Mic Jack_3.5mm_with 2x internal Switch (eg LUM 1503-09)
J4 1 Headphones Jack_3.5mm_with 2x internal Switch (eg LUM 1503-09)
SW1 1 PTT/Key Print Push Button_6mm_H5mm
J6,J7 1 LCD 162 DIP LCD Display „162 DIP“ Green
R4 1 27k Resistor, SMT, 0805
RV1 1 POT 10k Potentiometer_Piher_PT-6-V_Vertical
And finally we take care about RF PCB – NEW serial resonance Multi-Band PCB !

First place the Capacitors, the Resistor and the GPIO Expander IC on the Board (U1) according to the Schematic and BOM Table below.
The capacitors on this board need to be 0805 NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V ! Leave out Ca1 for best Efficiency !
Then continue with the Relays:
Then select Torids according to Schematic and wind them with the amount of turns according to Schematic. For Example: 10T/T37-2
means: Use Toroid Core T37-2 (= red one), put on 10 Turns. The given Values were tested with at least 3 Builts and produced always
between 4-6W Output (@13,8V) and Efficiency over 80%. The footprint on the PCB almost forces you to devide the windings evenly and
I found this gives me much more repeatable results. Remember: When you insert the Copper enamel wire in the core, this is already
winding Nr. 1 ! Wind one Toroid Coil after another, scratch off the enamel coating of their ends with a knife, stick the lose ends through
PCB and twist them like shown below. Then they won´t fall out, and you can solder them after having placed all of them (or a few of
them like in my Photo)

This Photo was taken from the first Multiband Version, but the technique is stll the same.

All my coils were wound with 0,4mm Diameter copper enamel wire.
After all Toroids are Placed and soldered, only the BS170´s, the SMA Socket and the IO Headers need to be soldered on:

The Software File in „Firmware“ Folder is optimized for use with Relay Switching.

When testing RF Boards, I always measure Input Current and Output Power into Dummy Load.
You can calculate efficieny:
Power In = Voltage in x (Current In while TX – Current while RX)
Effieciency in % = Power Out / Power In x 100

With this built and the above Values in Schematic I get beween 82-93% of Efficiency.
You can affect efficiency and output Power by Squeezing windings more together or seperate them more evenly. Usually no more
tweaking then that is required.

Multiband RF Board BOM:

Component Count: 59
Ref Qnty Value Footprint
C1, C2, 2 100n Capacitor_SMD, Size 0805, X7R Type
Ca1, 1 (130p) leave out ! Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Ca2, Ca3, Ca5, Cc21, Cc22, 5 470p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Ca4, 1 150p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Cb1, 1 200p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Cb3, Cb5, Ce1, 3 680p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Cb4, 1 220p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Cb21, Cb22, 2 330p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Cc1, Cc4, 2 300p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Cc3, Cc5, 2 1000p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Cd1, 1 430p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Cd3, Cd5, 2 1200p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Cd4, 1 390p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Cd21, Cd22, Ce4, 3 620p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Ce3, Ce5, 2 1800p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Ce21, 1 360p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
Ce22, 1 1500p Capacitor_SMD: Size 0805, NP0/C0G Type, rated for 100V
H1, H2, H3, H4, 4 MountingHole_Pad MountingHole:MountingHole_3.2mm_M3_DIN965_Pad
J2, J3, 2 Conn_01x14_Female Connector_PinSocket_2.54mm:PinSocket_1x14_P2.54mm_Vertical
J4, 1 Conn_Coaxial Connector_Coaxial:SMA_Samtec_SMA-J-P-X-ST-EM1_EdgeMount
K1, K2, K3, K4, K5, 5 IM43JR/GR Relais:Relay_DPDT_AXICOM_IMSeries_GullWing
L1, 1 12T/FT37-43 12 Turns on FT37-43 Core (Black)
La1, Lc2, 2 10T/T37-2 10 Turns on T37-2 Core (red)
La2, 1 7T/T37-2 7 Turns on T37-2 Core (red)
Lb1, Ld2, 2 12T/T37-2 12 Turns on T37-2 Core (red)
Lb2, 1 8T/T37-2 8 Turns on T37-2 Core (red)
Lc1, Le2, 2 15T/T37-2 15 Turns on T37-2 Core (red)
Ld1, 1 17T/T37-2 17 Turns on T37-2 Core (red)
Le1, 1 21T/T37-2 21 Turns on T37-2 Core (red)
Q2, Q3, Q4, 3 BS170 Package_TO_SOT_THT:TO-92_Inline_Wide
R1, 1 10k Resistor_SMD, Size 0805
U1, 1 PCA9555 Package_SO:TSSOP-24_4.4x7.8mm_P0.65mm
Final important notes:

– when programming via ISP Interface, you need to insert a 3,5mm Stereo Plug (with nothing connected) into Mic/PTT Jack.
Otherwise the internal Diode of the On-Board Microphone can mess with the MISO Line.
– Be extremely careful, when putting the Sandwich together. It´s pretty easy to miss one pin, or even worse: Connect it to the
wrong pin.
– Always remove it from Power Supply when Disassembling / Reassembling the boards.
– If you see problems with bad Sideband rejection, add 50 Ohms Resistor in Series with C1. This can be done by placing C1 on one
Pad standing, and adding 2 parallel 100Ohms resistors standing on the other pad, then connect the top Connectors of the resistors and
C1 with a solder blop . This was found to be helpful on 4 Layer Mainboard in some cases.

Have fun while building, and please report any bugs and errors while building to groups.io
or directly to me:
DL2MAN@gmx.de