Trs Bit: Trs8Bit Trs8Bit Trs8Bit Trs8Bit
Trs Bit: Trs8Bit Trs8Bit Trs8Bit Trs8Bit
ADDRESS LINES
The address lines are outputs from the Z-80 used to specify
memory locations. If any address line is not active (stuck
on one state), there will be 'garbage' (random characters)
on the screen at boot. To check the address lines, remove
the DIP Shunt at position Z3 and power-up the system. If the
screen fills with a pattern of “@9@9@9@9...”, then all the
address lines A0 – A9 are good. The remaining address lines
A10 – A15 can be checked for activity with a scope.
ADDRESS DECODERS
DATA LINES
The Z-80 uses data lines both to read and write data at any
memory address. The control lines (RD*, WR*, IN*, and OUT*)
output from Z23, are used in conjunction with the data lines
to specify what is to be done with the data bus. Absence of
IN* or OUT* will cause cassette I/O to fail, while RD* and WR*
will cause garbage on the screen. Any data line without
activity will also cause garbage. Remove Z3 and look at the
display. An inactive data line will often cause a pattern on
the screen like @1@1 or Y9Y9 and the bad bit can easily be
found. Since the correct pattern is @9@9, the stuck bit can be
determined mathematically (similar to bad address lines above,
subtracting the binary of @ or 9 from that of the character
seen). The most common cause of a stuck data line is a bad
memory chip, the inputs of which are tied directly to the data
lines. Removing all memory chips and checking the pattern will
identify whether the problem is RAM or some other chip.
VIDEO RAM
Ram errors are the most common video problem. To isolate the
defective chip, first determine the ASCII code of that
character that should be shown and the character that appears
instead. For example, a blank screen (press CLEAR) is filled
with ASCII code 32's (the code for a “space”). If some
location shows a “$”, which is ASCII 36, subtract 36-32=4. The
location with the error is displaying character 36 instead of
character 32 because bit 2 is stuck on (2^2=4). Replace Z46.
Similarly, if pressing “B” on the keyboard displays “J” on the
screen: B=66, J=74, 74=66=8, and since 2^3=8, replace Z45.
SYSTEM RAM
TROUBLESHOOTING
VIDEO
VIDEO JITTER
Check for output from Z66
Check each gate of Z5, Z6, Z57
Check for intermittent R20, R21
Check each output of video divider chain
NO VIDEO
Check power supply voltages (note that if the 12V line is out,
5V will be to.
Shorted RAM chip can bring down voltages
Check for output at Z30 pin 1. If present, check Z41 and Q1/
Q2. (Z41 could be
bad if cassette relay is shorted).
Check Z9 pin 8 for SHIFT. Check output of Z26, pin 8. Check
output of Z10 pin 13.
Check inputs RS1, RS2, and RS3 and from Z28.
OTHER
Wrong characters displayed (but recognized as correct by
computer) – Video RAM.
Parts of characters illegible or missing – Z29 or RS1, RS2,
RS3
No blank lines under alpha characters – DLY L8 inactive.
Video is a smear of dots – video address lines.
CASSETTE
No “CSAVE” -- Replace Z59
Intermittent “CLOAD” -- Check XRXIII, check Z24, replace Z44
No “CLOAD” -- Check output from Z4 pin 10, check Z24 pin 9
“after” XRXIII, check Z24 pin 8, replace Z44
Dim video during CLOAD – Check Z41, K1, or CR3 for short
Tape motor always on – Check Z41, CR9 and CR10 for short,
replace K1
HINTS
The Ne
TRS8BIxt issue of
T w
out ea ill be
March rly
2014.
Anychanc
in a c e you could
ontrib
ution send
?
The same applies to CP/M 2.2 on the 4P, just copy the hard4-0
and hard4-1 image files (15Mb each) from the CPM Image folder
to the SD card and start your 4P about 5 seconds after FreHD -
auto instant boot CP/M.
ianm@trs-80.com
SOURCE: Micro-80-Volume-01-Issue10
Part Nos. 8043364 and 8043732 are for all except "G" boards
and these ROM's still need to be used in conjunction with
the XRX III loading modification.
Part Nos. 8044364 and 8044732 are for the "G" boards and do
not require the XRX III loading modification.
ROM A and ROM B are in the first chip (8K), ROM C is in the
second chip (4K).
If you have a Model 1, Revision "G" with two ROM Chips, you
can read those into one file and then create one 8K file
and one 4K file. The TMS2564 EPROMS are Pin Compatible for
24 out of the 28 Pins. The TOP Four Pins won't be
inserted in the ROM Sockets. Power will be on Pin 24
instead of Pin 28. Check the Note. The Chip Select Pins
will have to be wired to the proper signals. Vpp Might also
need to be tied to a Pull-up Resistor using +5VDC.
thing
Up to som e ew w ith
o r n
special ?
your Tandgy us all
lettin
How about about it?
know
http://www.vintagecomputer.net/fjkraan/comp/trs80/
http://www.vintagecomputer.net/fjkraan/comp/trs80/
trs80Archives_diskpacks/
Archive: softinno.zip
Length Date Time Name
--------- ---------- ----- ----
21324 1994-09-19 23:54 MODEL1.EXE
3074 1993-07-01 02:13 MODEL1.FNT
234 1996-05-07 20:08 MODEL1.SET
102400 1996-05-07 20:07 BOOT.DSK
102400 1996-05-07 20:06 MICRO.DSK
12288 1993-09-24 20:30 ROMIMAGE (Model 1 - Version
1.3)
--------- -------
241720 6 files
I've tried using CP/M Version 2.2 to extract the three ROM
Images. I finally figured out how to use DDT to CROP the
ROMIMAGE file, so I could make three (4K) HEX images.
Start of LOOP:
I executed DDT which gave me the - command prompt.
Larry Kraemer
ldkraemer@gmail.com
http://ianmav.customer.netspace.net.au/trs80/
2.
Q. I hear there was an entry-level 4K Level 1 Model III - do
you know much about it?
A. Yes it's very rare and did not sell many. It carried the
catalog number 26-1061, and did indeed have 4K Ram and an
improved version of Level 1 BASIC which had printing commands,
since the Model III motherboard has a printer port on it as
standard. Cassette baud rate was still 250 and the keyboard
also lacked key-rollover. Contemporary collections seem to
indicate that there are less than 50 left in existence. Just
like 4K Level 1 Model Is are rare, it's entirely plausible
that most were upgraded to 16K Model III BASIC or disk systems
not long after purchase as most people found Level 1 BASIC far
to restrictive to do anything serious.
3.
Q. I have a 4K Level 1 Model III - how do I upgrade it to 16K
and Model III BASIC?
A. Don't do it - you have a rare and collectable machine.
4.
Q. Is there a High Resolution Graphics board for the Model
III?
A. Yes, Tandy used to make one which carried the catalog
number 26-1125 which provided 640 x 200 pixel resolution. The
kit was expensive and so not many were sold. In Australia it
was $529 and had not much software support, so it was a hard-
sell. The board itself was a replacement for the rear RFI
shield on US Model IIIs, or a RFI shield with a circuit board
integrated into it which now fits over the motherboard. It
connects to the 50-way I/O bus, runs of 5V, and has pass-
through connectors for the monitor. There was very little
software support from Tandy (Dow Jones Market Analyser and
Business Graphics being two), though it did come with a very
handy version of Basic with good graphics commands. Also
80micro featured programs from time to time which utilised the
graphics board.
5.
Q. Tandy sold a Model III-to-4 upgrade kit but I never see
them for sale on eBay?
A. This is an interesting one. Yes Tandy did sell a Model
III-to-4 upgrade "kit". It was catalog number 26-1123 and
comprised of a Model 4 motherboard, keyboard, nameplate, 64K
ianm@trs-80.com
Z E N 8 5 Ver. 6.2
------------------
Introduction
------------
One of the big demands on time was the creation of the CP/M
version that is now available making that operating system
just about bearable. Should you discover anything not
performing as expected please let me know, probably the
fault will be in the documentation rather than the software.
2. Assembler Commands
3. Extended Debugger
"FreHD"
-Emulates a TRS-80 hard drive, but faster than any hard drive!
-Works with your favourite DOS (LS-DOS, LDOS, CP/M, Newdos/80 2.5)
-Uses SD card for storage medium
-Bonus free Real Time Clock function!
-Designed in Belgium and proudly built and shipped from Australia
-Kit form or fully assembled
4. Disassembler
5. Miscellaneous
I think all of the foregoing and the rest applies equally well
to Zen4/Cmd 3.0 and the CP/M version of Zen. I've added
default file extensions to Zen for most of the file orientated
procedures. Zen applies these default extensions without
regard to the possibility of correctly named files already
existing without extensions. If you don't like this situation
then simply replace the bytes from 569C to 56AE with 0D's.
Assuming you don't then the extensions used are as follows:
6. General notes
Zen only uses the Rom single character scan at 2BH for all
keyboard input. With Newdos80 and Dosplus this routine is
treated as a valid device for 'Chained' input and consequently
Zen can be operated via chain-files with both these systems.
Z> A<cr>
Source file> SCRIP1/ZEN, SCRIP2/ZEN, SCRIP3/ZEN<cr>
Option> D<cr>
Filespec> SCRIPSIT/CMD<cr>
Z> O<cr>
Dos ready SCRIPSIT/CMD<cr>
Happiness is a not
too-warm M1 Tandy!
Hence my interest in dual disk drive boxes and any idea which
will cut down the number of power strips needed to get systems
up and running. Putting a FreHD inside a disk drive box and
powered by the same power supply seemed like a great idea.
Not long ago I made some Model 1 hard disk adaptor boards
which allowed connection of a TRS-80 hard disk drive or a
FreHD to a Model 1. These little devices have two resistors
and two transistors, and is
connected to the Expansion
Interface via a short cable.
With only four parts it is
powered by the Expansion
Interface. There is a lot of
electronic "traffic" on the
short connecting cable, but I
still planned to mount both
the FreHD and M1 HD adaptor
into the disk drive case for
a neater installation. How
long could I make the "short"
cable before it would run
into problems of signal
degradation and propagation
irregularities causing timing
dramas?
As you can see from the photos I mounted the FreHD up front in
the case and the M1 HD adaptor right behind it joined by a
short 5cm long cable. I then made up a small power cable to
bring 5V from the disk drive power supply to the FreHD. The
data cables for the FreHD and the disk drive come out at the
same place, and were shortened to about 60cm.
Photo: FreHD mounted and the disk drive allows the system to
boot
(Source: http://slash.dotat.org/~newton/bbslist.txt)
So where did the column name came from? Well the 8” TRS-80’s
primarily had a place in business back in those days. They
were probably over-engineered for home use and were awfully
expensive for those days. Their feature set was more focused
on business solutions so it seemed pertinent that my column
title should reflect that. Other names were canvassed but
not knowing the TRS8BIT audience too well at this stage,
references to eight inches and columns may not have been
well received!
Kevin
The published version was written for the tape system. There
were instructions for modifying it for a DOS, which amounted
to replacing two lines (720 and 730) with:
720 OPEN"I",1,"DRWHO/DAT
730 INPUT#1,SP:INPUT#1,SD:INPUT#1,SO:INPUT#1,S1
:S1=LEFT$(S1,60)+CHR$(34)+MID$(S1,62,4)+CHR$(34)
+RIGHT$(S1,12):CLOSE1
which reads from a disk file rather than tape. A better solution would
Jim: To collect the six parts of the key of time and bring them back to
the throne room on Gallifrey (which I misspelled as Galafry).
Jim: Someone at Newcastle University (I can't tell you who) had written
a Dr Who game which was floating around on their PDP 11/70 computer and
which I played, and that inspired me to write the program.
I nicked a couple of their ideas, but all the code and most of the
story are my invention.
As it's impossible to cover all the possible combinations of software, operating systems and
hardware, in the following text I'll just describe the method I used to make both IMAGE and
DSK files from copies of my Newdos/80/86 hard drive boot disks using a TRS80 4P.
I've also used this method for making image files and working floppies from DSK files of
various disks including Multidos Models 1 and 3, Newdos80/86/90, Hardos, Dosplus
Models 1,3 and 4 and Rapidos and I have also used a System80 to make image and DSK
files of various Dick Smith's programmes such as WORP1, WORP9 etc that ran on the
Microdos/OS80 operating system.
The reader will need to alter the details to suit their own situation. This process is definitely
not PnP and the reader will need to have a working knowledge of the structure of the disks
they are going to copy.
An IMAGE file or what I call an IMAGE file is just a file that contains a complete image of
a floppy disk. It contains none of the header information that a DSK file has and as such may
not run on emulator.
I recently received a request for copies of some of my Model 3 Newdos/Hardos boot disks.
I could have run off some copies, stuck a stamp on them and entrusted them to Aussie Snail
Mail but as I had previously made images and DSK files of some of Dick Smith's MicroDos
programmes I thought I would try the same process on the 4P and then email the image files
with instructions on how to convert them into working floppies. Pleased to say that for once
all went according to plan.
The process involves extracting all the sectors from the original disk and then saving them to
an IMAGE file. That IMAGE file can then be emailed to another user and converted back to
a working floppy or converted to a DSK file that will run on an emulator. Of course the
reverse of all of this is also possible and a DSK file can be converted back to a floppy.
1) Run Super Utility and from the main menu select option 8 and set the configuration of
drive 0 to suit the disk being copied. In this case it was a 40 track Newdos disk.
Drive 0 - N3DR',40,17 - This will change depending on the type of DOS and configuration.
Set drive 1 to -
Drive 1 - T4D',42,01
You will notice that I have set drive 1 to 42 tracks. The standard single sided drives are not
large enough to hold a 40 track image file but we can work a swifty to get around the
problem. Most drives will step an extra 2 tracks and this will give us enough space to hold
the file. Thanks to Ray Whitehurst ( Audronic) for coming up with this trick.
Remove the Super Utility disk and insert the WRITE PROTECTED copy of the disk to be
copied into drive 0 and a blank floppy into drive 1.
3) To stop Super Utility from saving part of the image file in last half of track 0 we create a
small file that will fill the remainder of track 0.
From the main menu select
7 - File Utilities
10 - Build File
File to Create - XYZ/FIL:1
Grans to Allocate - 2
10 - Build File
File to Create - xxxxxxxx/IMG:1
Grans to Allocate - 120
If the gods are happy, xxxxxxxx/IMG:1 should now be an exact copy of the disk in drive 0
and should start at track 2, sector 0 of drive 1 and run for a contiguous 720 sectors.
It will not contain any of the header information that a DSK file has and as such may not run
We can now boot LSDOS and transfer xxxxxxxx/IMG:1 to the PC via an RS232 or the
FreHD's SD card using EXPORT2 and then email the image file to the lucky recipient.
As I had a number of disks to convert I reused the IMAGE DISK by just renaming the image
file to whatever was appropriate.
Having received the image file via the magic of email the lucky recipient will want to
transfer it to floppy, which is explained in the next chapter.
Firstly we need to make a disk to hold the IMAGE file. As above we will need to make a 42
track disk.
1) Boot LSDOS 6.3.1 and format a disk in drive 1 with 42 tracks and the directory on track
one.
FORMAT :1 (D=1,C=42)
This will be the IMAGE disk.
2) Connect the 4/4P to the PC via the RS232, fire-up your favorite terminal programme and
transfer the image file to the IMAGE disk or if you own a FreHD, you can use IMPORT2 to
transfer the file to floppy. With any luck it should save at track 2, sector 0 and in the case of
a 40 track SSDD disk, run for a contiguous 720 sectors. If it doesn't then the command
MEMORY (A="A",B=2) should force DOS to save it at track 2, sector 0.
4) Insert a blank disk into Drive 0 and from the main menu select
3 - Format
1 - Standard Format
Drive 0
5) When formatting has completed return to the main menu and select
1 - Zap Utilities
4 - Copy Sectors
Source - 1,2,0
Sector Count - 720
Destination - 0,0,0
Mount Prompts - N
6) When Super Utility has finished copying return to the main menu and select
5 - Repair Utilities
4 - Read Protect Directory
Drive 0
Enter 17,10 - This will change depending on the type of DOS and configuration.
While an IMAGE file is OK for emailing and making a working floppy it may not run on an
emulator without a bit more work.
The following text will explain how I created a DSK file from an image of my NEWDOS80
system disk. Super Utility's configuration will need to be altered to suit other operating
systems and disk formats.
1) To make a DSK file we need TRSTOOLS to create 2 virtual floppies. Firstly a blank 40
track DSDD disk and as this will be used to hold the .IMG file we can call this the
IMAGEDISK and another floppy in the same size as the original floppy. In this case it was a
40 track SSDD 180k disk. Name it to suit. This disk will be mounted in drive 2 of TRS32.
2) Run TRS32, boot LSDOS, mount the IMAGEDISK in drive 1 and format it with the
following parameters -
FORMAT :1(DDEN,SIDES=2,C=40,D=1)
3) Exit TRS32 and use TRSTOOLS to copy the .IMG file to the IMAGEDISK. TRSTOOLS
hopefully will save the image file starting at track 2 sector 0.
Run TRS32. The dos command FREE :dn should show if it has been saved in the correct
place. If all is OK then go to 4)
If the file has not saved starting at track 2 sector 0 then we need to create a small file that
will fill the remainder of track 0.
4) Start TRS32 and make sure we have a copy of Super Utility in drive 0, the IMAGEDISK
in drive 1 and the blank 40 track SSDD floppy in drive 2.
Run Super Utility and set the configuration to
Drive 1 - T4D",40,01
Drive 2 - N3DR',40,17 - This will change depending on the type of DOS and configuration.
6) When Super Utility has finished copying return to the main menu and select
5 - Repair Utilities
4 - Read Protect Directory
Drive 2
Enter 17,10 - This may change depending on the type of DOS and configuration.
If all has gone to plan the disk in drive 2 should now be a valid DSK file that will, in the case
of a system disk, boot in drive 0 of TRS32.
The IMAGEDISK can be reused by deleting the old IMG file and copying any new file
using TRSTOOLS.
DSK/DCT supplied with the FreHD and DISKCOPY/CMD will allow you to make working
copies of most DSK files that will run on the original hardware. The process is incredibly
simple but for those occasional files that it can't handle we need another less simple
approach.
The process involves turning a DSK file into an image file that we can then download to the
computer either by the RS232 or the FreHD's IMPORT2 utility.
Having created the image file we can then use the process described above in "SAVING
THE DISK IMAGE TO FLOPPY" to make a floppy that will run on the original
computer.
The following procedure assumes that the DSK file that we are extracting the image from is
40 track SSDD. The settings will need to be changed to suit other formats.
1) Use TRSTOOLS to create blank 40 track DSDD disk to hold the .IMG file, we can call
this the IMAGEDISK. A 40 track DSDD disk will give us more than enough space to hold a
40 track SSDD image.
2) Start TRS32 and mount a disk with Super Utility in drive 0, the DSK virtual disk to be
copied, in this case it was a 40 track SSDD virtual disk, in drive 1 and the IMAGEDISK in
drive 2.
Run Super Utility and set the configuration of drive 1 to suit the format of the DSK disk. In
the case of an LSDOS SSDD DSK file we should have something like this
Drive 1 - T4D',40,20
4) When formatting has completed return to the main menu and select
7 - File Utilities
10 - Build File
File to Create - XYZ/FIL:2
Grans to Allocate - 5
10 - Build File
File to Create - xxxxxxxx/IMG:2
Grans to Allocate - 120
The file xxxxxxxx/IMG:2 should now be an exact copy of the disk in drive 1 and should
start at track 2, sector 0 and run for a contiguous 720 sectors.
We can now extract this file using TRSTOOLS, download it to the TRS80 and create a
working disk using the methods described above in "SAVING THE DISK IMAGE TO
FLOPPY"
All of the above may seem unnecessarily complicated, I wrote it and I'm not sure I
understand it, but it does work flawlessly or it has done so far.
Finally a big pat on the back to Kim Watt for Super Utility and Matthew Reed for TRS32
and TRSTOOLS.
--== o 0o ==--
Hardware_-_Upgrading_Model_I_to_64K_DRAM.zip
While you could keep your M1 setup complete and just hide the
MISE off to the side for nostalgia reasons/vintage feel while
keeping the advantages of the MISE, you can also keep the
vintage feel and connect it directly to the keyboard and along
with the 64k keyboard upgrade.
You can have a very compact space saving system without the
expansion interface.
Malcom
With one of these two systems you can make your TRS-80 completely
up to date and useful for modern applications.
I bought a sets of the TRS-80 adapter and Ian was so kind to send me
a FreHD set to evaluate it to convince me of the qualities of this
interface. This set is going on tour in Europe for other users to test it
for a few weeks. Just ask Ian about it.
I have three TRS-IDEs built without any problems and they worked
immediately and were completely interchangeable.
The manual and support for the FreHD is excellent and for the TRS -
IDE, less obvious and requires some detective work of the builder.
The hard disk can be used for LS-DOS 6; LDOS 5 and CP/M.
The FreHD
Pro:
Against:
Data storage is only possible on a SD card. (No real hard disk or CF-
card supported)
Due to the technical expensive components and advanced file system
and the RTC is the FreHD considerably more expensive than the TRS-
IDE.
Think also about the transport from Australia and customs clearance
fees at customs.
Due to extra build in security checking the response and transfer time
is a little bit longer than the with the TRS-IDE controller.
The TRS-IDE
Pro:
The ability to use either an IDE hard disk, CF or SD makes the system
attractive
With a IDE hard drive is the system super fast.
With multiple partitions and smart boot floppies you have way to build
a powerful system that supports more operating systems on one
storing device.
Built-into a computer is certainly possible, but requires some ingenuity.
If you build it yourself, you have a real cheap hard disk for your TRS-
80.
Against:
Besides the small PCB with the controller there is need for a real IDE
hard disk, CF to IDE or SD to IDE adapter.
The system depends on modified drivers for every operating system,
so you are dependent of the good will of the developer.
The supporting software is minimal and you will need to make use of
utilities that are available in various libraries on the internet
Auto Boot is not available, but may be solved in the future by
modifying the existing software and the system rom.
The development of supporting software is at a low level or has
completely stopped.
The data on the CF or SD card can not be maintained on the PC, but
needs through floppies to happen.
Conclusion
Both interfaces do well where they are made for. They provide your
TRS-80 with an extremely powerful hard disk system. It makes
working with the elderly computers again a pleasure.
Are you going for a cheap solution then the TRS-IDE is a good choice.
If you want more comfort and support, and you are willing to pay a
reasonable, but justified price, then go for the FreHD.
But whatever you chose, just do it, you won't regret it.
Hans
hans@rietveldcomputers.nl
Business Time with Kev
Well firstly can I say thank you for all the positive comments I received
about my inaugural article. It’s greatly appreciated!
As I indicated in my first article, this would be more about the journey in
resurrecting two Model 16’s and that journey very much continues.
Unfortunately my Model 16’s are still mothballed – a few unfortunate
house moves has meant that stuff, in fact my entire collection of TRS-
80’s and others, has been stored away and not to be enjoyed. But all that
is changing as I write.
So with that in mind I had to cast my mind to what I might write about
for this issue of TRS8BIT and then I had an epiphany – as collectors we
often talk about our collections and rightly so, but at the moment I’m
totally consumed with the facilities I have for housing, managing and
enjoying my collect ion - and therein lay the answer – we don’t talk much
about where we do what we do.
For me I’ve just started moving into the new home for my collection after
many months of going through the sometimes onerous building cycle.
Please keep in mind that I didn’t purpose build a facility but a few things
occurred along the way that might be useful to others who are
considering renovations, building or improving your facilit ies. I hope
these pointers are useful to some of
you even though I might be stating
the obvious on occasions.
But once done I noticed something. This provided a seal for the
corrugations on the outside of the shed (see the left photo). The idea was
that it should stop a fire finding its way into the building via the gaps at
the bottom of the corrugations on the sides of the shed. If you saw
where I lived you’d probably laugh at that notion. But what I have
noticed is that by doing this the shed is a lot cleaner, is easier to keep
clean, the temperature is more moderate and it’s a lot dryer. If I was to
build a shed again for this purpose I’d have this done even if I wasn’t
required to by the building regulators.
Now powering the shed was a bit of challenge given what I was intending
to do and the potential demands on the electricity supply. Planning
showed that we needed 25 double power points (I don’t want a lot of
extension cords and power boards running around cluttering the
workspace and catching fire) and 14 double fluros. I was deliberately
generous with lighting as I wanted no shadows and I didn’t want to have
to roll in additional lighting for any specific spot in the shed – with the
shiny sisalation on all sides and the roof, light saturation in the shed is
exceptionally good and I’m quite pleased with the outcome (with one
exception which I’ll explain later). I also specified double fluros because if
that was too much light you can always remove a tube but if you don’t
have enough light its expensive to retrofit more lights – and remarkably
double fluros are usually only a few dollars more than singles. The initial
plan by the electrician was to run two circuits in the shed i.e. one down
the left side and one down the right side. I wasn’t happy with this for
several reasons. One was that it meant that the total safe draw down
was about 20 amps. I’m one for over engineering things like this because
the last thing I wanted is power lines to the shed melting. After
discussions with the electrician we asked for four circuits in the shed
(excluding lights and overhead fans of course) – one for the rumpus
room at the front, one down the left side, one down the right side and
one exclusively for my work bench (also on the right side). This provided
for plenty of capacity allowing a drawdown of the full 32 amps (not that I
intended to do that but it gave adequate capacity if I had a lot of stuff
fired up at once). The reason I isolated the work bench was that
powering up old machines can be a bit risky and if something was going
to go all smoky with lot of sparks I didn’t want that taking out the whole
shed and house. The three power points over my work bench are on their
own circuit, RCD and circuit breaker to minimise any issues like this.
This next photo is looking at the bench work down the left side. You’ll
note that there are no exposed bolts fixing the posts to the floor, they
are concealed inside the post. This was done for four reasons – it’s
cosmetically pleasing, you don’t get those awkward moments where you
can’t quite fit something under a bench properly because bolts and
brackets are in the way, you can’t get something out without a fight
because its snagged on a bolt or bracket in the way, and it’s easier to
clean.
Now in some of the photos you’ll also notice a few small pallets sitting
under benches. I grabbed these a while ago when my wife was working
for a mobile phone repair company – they come under boxes of mobile
phone spares and are small and easy to handle keeping stuff up off the
floor and making thing tidier and easy to clean. In the photo above you’ll
also notice a row of slats under the bench – these are the slats from an
IKEA bed – again I want to keep storage tidy and easier to maintain.
(You may have noticed that I’m a self-confessed “scab” and if I see
anything that’s on its way to the dump I usually see a way I can put it to
use.) There’s a really small risk of flooding in most places (I don’t mean
just mine) so if that were to occur everything is off the floor as well. I’ve
also found that with stuff not sitting on the concrete and allowing air to
move around it there are less issues with insects living under boxes –
notwithstanding the edging placed around the bottom of the shed
corrugations crawly insects do still get in, and as I’ve found, like living
under my boxes. Here’s a larger view down the left side.
Now the noticeable feature in this photo is the shelves – you can see
here that I was able to take advantage of the additional height of the
shed – yes I need a small step ladder to reach the top shelves but that’s
for infrequently accessed stuff. Now an issue a little aside from this – the
bench tops are made from flooring material – the recommended spacing
of the underside supports is 450mm, however, we set them at 400mm (I
like over-engineered) – I can quite safely stand on the benches and I’m
about 135kg. It’s not quite so obvious here but the bench height is 1m –
the standard height for benches in your house may be around 900mm.
The reason I set it higher in the shed was because 1m is my standing
non-bent-over working height. If I’m working for long periods at 900mm
that’s going to play havoc with my aging back. Yes, this may be
problematic for height challenged visitors to my shed but as I’m going to
be the one most often in there it had to suit me. I have an idea how to
build small platforms for our smaller folk. But it’s the height of the
underside of the shelves that is significant here as you can see in the
next photo.
You’ll notice in the photo above that the back shelves are set higher than
the shelves running down the right side of the shed. The reason for this
is not TRS-80 related but it does help. While the Model 16’s are big
machines compared to their Model 4, 3 and 1 cousins I actually have
some other machines in my collection that have 19” RGB CRT monitors
(Apollo Workstations for those who may be interested). If anyone has
one of these you’ll understand this – they are very big (and extremely
heavy – they’re a serious bit of glass) and I wanted them to fit
comfortably under the shelves so I had plenty of working space around
them including in front of them.
For the observant you’ll also notice that the bench width in the photo at
the back is deeper – its 1m deep whereas the bench tops running down
the right and left side of the shed are narrower. Again this is to
accommodate the larger machines to ensure there is plenty of space
around them for working and peripherals such as printers, external drives
etc. There’s nothing worse than trying to use a machine where the front
or the keyboard is hanging over the edge.
For the interested here is a larger shot (below) of the work currently
underway. You also get a better shot of the floor here. The floor is
painted with Berger Jet Dry. There were two reasons for this – cosmetic
of course and naked concrete has lots of pits in it and these become dust
traps. Painting the floor has not only made the shed cleaner but also
easier to clean.
On the right you can see my work bench and above and to the left is a
fluro. This fluro is on its own switch. There were two reasons for this –
one as that I only needed to turn on a single light to go into the shed to
grab something rather than the whole 14. The other reason was to
provide light over the bench for working and that was a bit of a fail as it’s
behind me and too far back. In hindsight I should have had an additional
light or two installed directly over the bench as we knew where it was
going (lighting and power was done when the shed was empty). I can
still fix this but at a cost of course.
It’s a bit hard to see here but there are two whirly-gigs in the roof. While
the intent was good (temperature moderation) it’s proved problematic.
The issue to look out for here is what happens in a storm. Under normal
conditions they’re fine but in extreme weather I’ve found water on the
floor under them. In a highly electrified environment that is an issue for
me for which I have a plan to resolve but as yet it’s untested.
Well I hope there were some useful tips in this for readers and hopefully
by the next issue I’ll have the 16’s out on the bench.
Kevin
LOOKING FOR FAST,
INEXPENSIVE, UNLIMITED MASS
STORAGE FOR YOUR TRS-80
MODEL I/III/4/4P/4D?
The amazing
"FreHD"
-Emulates a TRS-80 hard drive, but faster than any hard drive!
-Works with your favourite DOS (LS-DOS, LDOS, CP/M, Newdos/80 2.5)
-Uses SD card for storage medium
-Bonus free Real Time Clock function!
-Designed in Belgium and proudly built and shipped from Australia
-Kit form or fully assembled
Finding a TRS-80 Model I is not particularly hard - there are still good
numbers of them up for grabs on eBay, Gumtree, CraigsList etc. The
computer itself is compact and so easy to store until you wish to use it.
Oftentimes they show up for sale without the monitor or power supply.
Some time ago in TRS8Bit Volume 7, Issue 3, September 2013, pp. 23-
28, I wrote about how to build a power supply. This time I talk about
what you can do if the monitor is missing.
PARTS NEEDED
ASSEMBLY
Start by cutting one end off the RCA patch cable. Cut the insulation
away and you will find one wire runs through the core, and the other
forms the shielding. Tin the ends into two nice thin tips. The ground is
the external shielding on the cable, and the actual video signal travels
down the core strand. The purpose is to not leave excess solder on the
tips, otherwise they will not go into the holes in the 5-pin DIN connector.
The DIN connector comprises of four parts... the pin array (has the 5 pins
in it), the upper and lower clam halves, and the rubber plastic cover
shield. Before proceeding any further, put the cover shield down the RCA
patch cable. If you forget, it's impossible to put it on without undoing
the soldered connections you are about to make.
Ian.
ianm@trs-80.com
The Radio Shack Model III & IV Floppy Disk Controller (FDC) has the f ollowing Signals routed to Connectors J1 (EXTERNAL)
and J4 (INTERNAL), each capable of supporting two INTERNAL and two EXTERNAL 5.25” Floppy's at 40 Track, 80 Track,
Single Density, Double Density, or Aerocomp FLIPPY Driv es (Allowing Storage on the Back Side of TRS-80 Model 1 & 3
Driv es) .
NOTES:
Some Driv es use External Terminator Resistors to PULLUP the signals to the + Power Supply Rail. If y ou are going to be
installing (Model 1) driv es that hav e the terminators installed, they must be remov ed f or use with the Model 3 or Model 4 as
the FDC already has the Pullup Resistors installed.
The 3.5" Standard IBM Style Floppy Drive uses Pin 2 - Reduced Write Current (/REDWC) from the controller to
the drive to control the Density. The Model III & IV do not support this functionality, and the Drive's electronics
are Pulled LOW via a 1K Resistor to Common (Pin 1) forcing LOW Density.
TRS-80 Model 1 Floppy Disk Contr oller Signals to Radio S hack Driv es
1 Ground --
2 N/C Connector Clamp (Not used on TRS-80 Model 1 Floppy Disk Controller FDC)
3 Ground --
4 N/C Reserv ed (Not used on TRS-80 Model 1 Floppy Disk Controller FDC)
5 Ground --
6 N/C Reserv ed (Not used on TRS-80 Model 1 Floppy Disk Controller FDC)
7 Ground --
8<-- /Index NINDEX/SECTOR (0=Index)
9 Ground --
10--> /NDS1 0=Driv e Select 0 (Phy sical Driv e 1 = External)
11 Ground --
12--> /NDS2 0=Driv e Select 1 (Phy sical Driv e 2 = External)
13 Ground --
14--> /NDS3 0=Driv e Select 2 (Phy sical Driv e 3 = External)
15 Ground --
16--> /MOTEB 0=Motor Enable Driv e 1
17 Ground --
18--> /DIR 0=Direction Select
19 Ground --
20--> /Step 0=Head Step
21 Ground --
22--> /WDATA Write Data
23 Ground --
24--> /WGATE Floppy Write Enable, 0=Write Gate
25 Ground --
26<-- /TRK00 0=Track 00
27 Ground --
28<-- /WPT 0=Write Protect
29 Ground --
30<-- /RDATA Read Data
31 Ground --
32--> /NDS4 0=Driv e Select3 (Physical Drive 4 = External)
33 Ground --
34 N/C Connector Clamp (Not used on TRS-80 Model 1)
1 Ground --
2 N/C Connector Clamp (Not used on TRS-80 Model III/IV Floppy Disk Controller FDC)
3 Ground --
4 N/C Reserv ed (Not used on TRS-80 Model III/IV Floppy Disk Controller FDC)
5 Ground --
6 N/C Reserv ed (Not used on TRS-80 Model III/IV Floppy Disk Controller FDC)
7 Ground --
8<-- /Index NINDEX/SECTOR (0=Index)
9 Ground --
10--> /NDS1 0=Driv e Select 0 (Phy sical Driv e 1 = Internal)
11 Ground --
12--> /NDS2 0=Driv e Select 1 (Phy sical Driv e 2 = Internal)
13 Ground --
14--> N/C (Not used on Model III FDC)
15 Ground --
16--> /MOTEB 0=Motor Enable Driv e 1
17 Ground --
18--> /DIR 0=Direction Select
19 Ground --
20--> /Step 0=Head Step
21 Ground --
22--> /WDATA Write Data
23 Ground --
24--> /WGATE Floppy Write Enable, 0=Write Gate
25 Ground --
26<-- /TRK00 0=Track 00
27 Ground --
28<-- /WPT 0=Write Protect
29 Ground --
30<-- /RDATA Read Data
31 Ground --
32--> /SDSEL1 TRS-80 Model III & IV Floppy Disk Controller this is Side Select for the Read Head
33 Ground --
34 N/C Connector Clamp (Not used on TRS-80 Model III/IV)
Pins 2, 4, 6, 14, 34 SPARE in J1 (EXTERNAL) & J4 (INTERNAL)
TRS-80 Model IV Floppy Disk Contr oller Signals to Radio S hack Driv es
1 Ground --
2 N/C Connector Clamp (Not used on TRS-80 Model IV Floppy Disk Controller FDC)
3 Ground --
4 N/C Reserv ed (Not used on TRS-80 Model IV Floppy Disk Controller FDC)
5 Ground --
6 N/C Reserv ed (Not used on TRS-80 Model IV Floppy Disk Controller FDC)
7 Ground --
8<-- /Index NINDEX/SECTOR (0=Index)
9 Ground --
10--> /NDS1 0=Driv e Select 0 (Phy sical Driv e 1 = Internal)
11 Ground --
12--> /NDS2 0=Driv e Select 1 (Phy sical Driv e 2 = Internal)
13 Ground --
14 N/C (Not used on TRS-80 Model IV Floppy Disk Controller)
15 Ground --
16--> /MOTEB 0=Motor Enable Driv e 1
17 Ground --
18--> /DIR 0=Direction Select
19 Ground --
20--> /Step 0=Head Step
21 Ground --
22--> /WDATA Write Data
23 Ground --
24--> /WGATE Floppy Write Enable, 0=Write Gate
25 Ground --
26<-- /TRK00 0=Track 00
27 Ground --
28<-- /WPT 0=Write Protect
29 Ground --
30<-- /RDATA Read Data
31 Ground --
32--> /SDSEL1 TRS-80 Model III & IV Floppy Disk Controller this is Side Select for the Read Head
33 Ground --
34 N/C Connector Clamp (Not used on TRS-80 Model III/IV)
Pins 2, 4, 6, 14, 34 SPARE in J1 (EXTERNAL) & J4 (INTERNAL)
3.5" Standard IBM Style Floppy Driv e A Pin Out (On Tw isted Cable - IBM Style Driv es shipped Strapped
for Driv e 1)
1 Ground --
2---> /REDWC Density Select 0=Low/1=High
3 Ground --
4 N/C Reserv ed
5 Ground --
6 N/C Reserv ed
7 Ground --
8<--- /Index 0=Index
9 Ground --
10--> /MOTEA 0=Motor Enable Driv e 0
11 Ground --
12--> /DRVSB Driv e Select 1
13 Ground --
14--> /DRVSA Driv e Select 0
15 Ground --
16--> /MOTEB 0=Motor Enable Driv e 1
17 Ground --
18--> /DIR 0=Direction Select
19 Ground --
20--> /Step 0=Head Step
21 Ground --
22--> /WDATE Write Data
23 Ground --
24--> /WGATE Floppy Write Enable, 0=Write Gate
25 Ground --
26<-- /TRK00 0=Track 00
27 Ground --
28<-- /WPT 0=Write Protect
29 Ground --
30<-- /RDATA Read Data
31 Ground --
32--> /SIDE1 0=Head Select
33 Ground --
34<-- /DSKCHG 1=Disk Change/0=Ready
So, the conductors 10 through 16 are twisted f or IBM, but what y ou don't know is that pin 10, AND Pin 16 are ASSERTED
(HIGH) for the Motor ON signal. Y our older computer doesn't f ollow this IBM standard, so we need to do one small
modif ication to make the signals proper f or older computers.
Instead of twisting conductors 10 thru 16, just cut off the last connector and now twist just conductors 10 thru 12. Now rep lace
the connector accordingly . This keeps conductor 16 MOTOR ON f or ALL Driv es in the proper position. (Only Driv es 0 & 1 can
now be used......but if y ou route the conductor from Pin 10 to 14 (f or D2) or Pin 6 (for D3) those driv es can also be used,
assuming y our Driv e has the appropriate jumpers that can route the Driv es Electronics to the proper pin on the connector.) I
hope this is clear enough text to not be confusing. May be reading it a couple of times will help it sink in. There is a cha rt
below showing the same inf ormation.
AC TU AL WIRING CONVENTION THAT IBM USES by also duplicating the Signal on Pin 10 that Pin 16 has using a
Twist Cable.
6--> /DRVSD Driv e Select 3 **
8<--- /Index 0=Index
10--> /DRVSA Driv e Select 0 ***
12--> /DRVSB Driv e Select 1 ***
14--> /DRVSC Driv e Select 2 **
16--> /MOTEA & B 0=Motor Enable f or All Driv es
NOTES:
** - Some Model Driv es (TEAC FD-235HF) Hav e jumper positions f or Driv es 2 & 3 along with 0 & 1.
*** - Driv e Select Wiring will be determined f rom the Actual Drive and if it has jumpers or not. If no jumpers are on the Driv e,
then it's Def ault is to be Strapped f or Driv e 1. Otherwise wire the Proper Driv e Select from the Controller to the associate d Pin
shown f or the Drive, and set the Jumper f or that Driv e.
Notes:
Signals denoted in BLUE need to be modif ied for Drive 0 & Driv e 1 (Internal & External)
* - This Signal is not used on the Model III & IV
** - These Signals hav e Pullup Resistors Installed on the FDC f or Internal and External Connectors,
so driv es that hav e Terminator resistors installed need them remov ed.
# - This Signal needs to be Pulled LOW through a 1K Resistor f or Double Density (2D) versus High Density (HD).
## - This Signal doesn't need to be connected since it isn't used.
This Chart depicts what needs to be done to interconnect all the signals properly , but gets confusing about exactly what is
required. So, I'v e drawn out each interconnecting cable showing the exact wiring f or each driv e.
Floppy Disk Controller Pin Out for TRS-80 Model III & IV Drive 0 INTERNAL or EXTERNAL
Floppy Disk Controller Pin Out for TRS-80 Model III & IV Drive 1 INTERNAL or EXTERNAL
REF:
http://pinouts.ru/pin_Storage.shtml
http://pinouts.ru/Storage/InternalDisk_pinout.shtml
http://pinouts.ru/Storage/5_12_floppy_pinout.shtml
At this point the FDC to Drive hardware wiring setup should be complete. The FDC Signals to the 3.5” Driv e Connector are
wired correctly , but some driv es allow multiple jumper settings to route these signals to different pins or allow changing si gnal
states. If the STANDARD jumper settings for an IBM Sty le driv e are used, the 3.5” Driv e should f unction properly . There is a
possibility of using a 3.5” 720K Driv e, 3.5” 1.44K Driv e, 720K Diskettes, 1.44K Diskettes (with the Density Hole cov ered for
LOW Density), 40 Track configuration settings, or 80 Track Conf iguration Settings. I used Montezuma Micro CP/M v er 2.31,
and conf igured my EXTERNAL 3.5” Driv e f or 80 Tracks, 1 head, and Double Density in the CONFIG software. That gav e me
an 80 Track, SS, DD, 400K Formatted Floppy . (I lef t the Driv e size at 5.25” since a 3.5” driv e selection isn't av ailable an d a
3.5” driv e will f unction properly when connected.)
I hav e tested my wiring on three diff erent driv es. TEAC FD 235HF -117-U 720K Drive with a 720K Floppy , TEAC FD-235HF-
B291-U5 Driv e with a 720K Floppy , and a NEC FD1231H 1.44 Driv e with a HD f loppy with the Density Hole Cov ered to make
a 720K Floppy .
I also used Montezuma Micro CP/M v er 2.31, and configured my EXTERNAL 3.5” Driv es for 80 Tracks, 2 heads, and Double
Density in the CONFIG sof tware. That gav e me an 80 Track, DS, DD, 710K Formatted Floppy. (I lef t the Driv e size at 5.25”
since a 3.5” driv e selection isn't av ailable and a 3.5” driv e will f unction properly when connected.) PIP does copy the f ile s f rom
A: to C: or D: properly .
Using NEWDOS-80 (Model 3 v ersion) on my Model 4, I hav e set the PDRIVE according to the chart below and ev ery thing
works accordingly .
Driv e Driv e
Ty pe Size Density Sides SPT TI GRANS GPL
TD = Ty pe Drive
TI = Ty pe Interf ace (Standard or Apparat Disk Controller)
SPT = Sectors per Track
GPL = Grans per Lump
GRANS = Storage size on the f ormatted Floppy Disk
Pdriv e,0 ….............Shows the Disk Parameters f or the 10 drives stored in Memory.
Usage:
PDRIVE,SOURCE,DESTINATION,OPTIONS,,OPTIONS,OPTIONS,......,A
Y ou can change a driv es parameters, and read a new disk without a reboot. Use the f ollowing command ,A appended at the
end:
PDRIVE,0,3,SPT=20,TC=40,A
PDRIVE,0,3=1,A
PDRIVE,0,3,TD=A,SPT=10,TC=40,A
PDRIVE,0,3,TD=G,SPT=36,TC=80,A
(If you don't add the ,A y ou will need to reboot after changing the PDRIVE Parameters.) PDRIVE Parameters are
stored in RAM and will be RESET in the system on a reboot.
The Ampro Little Board Computer supports f our Driv es. If y ou are using Driv es such as the Tandon 100-2 with the Ampro, the
manual states that the Terminator resistor (RP1 in Socket 2F) needs to be REMOVED in all Driv es except f or the last Driv e on
the Floppy Cable.
I am including a Photo of what Signals are associated with these PULLUP Resistors. Drive Pins 2, 4, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 and
32 are PULLED HIGH through a 150 OHM DIP Resistor. So, y ou should also be able to use a 3.5” Floppy Driv e with the
Ampro Computer.
I now hav e two TEAC FD-235 HF Driv es connected to my Ampro Little Board Z80 Computer working correctly.
ENJOY!
Larry Kraemer 09-08-2010
373 CR 250
Chaff ee, MO. 63740
ldkraemer@gmail.com
10-18-2010 - Updated 10-09-2012 f or Model 1 FDC Interf ace.
05-01-2014 – Updated address
This time, I'm going to explain how to install a FreHD into a TRS-80 Hard
drive enclosure. In 2013 I wrote a 4 part series on restoring, connecting,
formatting and using the Radio Shack hard drives. In 2013 at the same
time the FreHD team ironed out the last of it's few bugs and started mar-
keting the device. FreHD is sold as either a partially for fully populated
PCB, it's up the buyer to determine their casing and power supply re-
quirements. It didn't take me long to realise the Radio Shack hard drive
has all the requirements to power and house FreHD. Most Radio Shack
hard drives sold on eBay are in a poor state and beyond economical re-
pair, so retro-fitting a FreHD makes even more sense.
You open it up by undoing the three machine screws on the back, and
sliding the whole top forwards and up. What you are then looking at is a
hard disk controller on top of a steel cage assembly. Under it are the
MFM hard drive itself, and a power supply. As well as the outer case, we
will be re-using the pressed steel cage assembly and power supply, the
power key-switch/activity light/protect light assembly, and the internal
50-way cable.
Unplug everything you can see and undo the 4 machine screws which
hold down the steel cage. Lift it up about 10cm and disconnect the ca-
bles for AC and power distribution from the power supply. Remove the
cooling fan and the hard drive. Clip or unsolder the wires from the hard
drive and the Activity and Protect lights. Leave enough length on the
wires from the lights to reach the FreHD green and red LEDs. If you
need to recap the power supply, now is a good time to do it, refer to
TRS8Bit Vol 6, Issue 4, page 10.
You could mount FreHD anywhere inside the enclosure, and leave one SD
card in it with one image on it and what do you have? Basically a re-
placement that offers no more functionality than the original TRS -80 hard
drive. It will work fine. But since one of the nicer features of FreHD is
the ability to change SD cards for ones with other software and images
on them, it makes sense to mount the FreHD in a manner where the SD
card can be easily removed. Fortunately for us the air grille on the front
of the hard drive enclosure has sufficient room to slide an SD card
through, so if you mount FreHD close enough to the front, at the correct
height, inserting the SD card works quite well.
By removing the front plastic facia from the top cover, you can determine
where the best place for the FreHD is. Two holes will need to be drilled,
one next to the SD card socket and one next to the battery clip. Look
carefully - there is space with no electronic connections which you can
drill through. You place the leading edge of the SD card socket against
the plastic facia, and by using long screws with multiple nuts and wash-
ers, you can position the FreHD at the correct height so that the SD card
socket lines up with the bottom cooling vent on the plastic facia. This
part of the process took the longest amount of time, but once done cor-
rectly the SD card inserts and ejects without contacting the plastic of the
cooling vent.
The two LEDs on the front of the FreHD lend themselves to being con-
nected up front on the information panel of the hard drive, and even the
colours match. By removing the incandescent globes from the Activity
and Protect light sockets and replacing them with LEDs, then run some
wires to the FreHD LEDs. What I did was install 2-pin sockets where the
LEDs were on the FreHD, and ran wires up to the front panel. You could
also hard wire them to the FreHD.
For power, we have the convenient power loom left over from the old
hard drive application. One end plugs into the power supply, another
end into the hard drive, and the other end to the HDC. For our new ap-
plication the hard drive power connector goes to the 12V 80mm cooling
fan, and we make an adaptor to connect two wires of the HDC end (5V
and Gnd) to the FreHD. Use a multimeter to make sure you have the
correct wires and polarity.
Finally the large 50-way cable from inside the hard drive can be con-
nected directly to FreHD. Once completed, the steel chassis holding the
power supply and be put back in place and if you haven't already done
so, remove the HDC.
FINISHING OFF
You may notice that the front doesn't fit on properly without notching out
the base where the front screws which hold the FreHD to the chassis foul
the plastic facia. Cutting a couple of small notches underneath won't be
visible and will allow the lid to be re-fitted to the hard drive unit.
Oh and don't forget to put a CR-2032 battery in before closing your up-
graded TRS-80 hard drive.
Ian.
ianm@trs-80.com
Larry Kraemer
If possible, run programs on the CP/M system to help get the necessary information for
building a new definition. The following files may be transferred by RS-232C if a Terminal
Program is available,
or by PIPMODEM.COM (PIPMODEM.DOC & PIPMODEM.ASM)
If you have a functional CP/M system, you can use DDT to find the Disk Parameter Block
and the
information is stored there for each drive.
1. Log the drive you wish to locate the DPB data for. I will use A; for this example
2. Run DDT and enter the code below:
DDT
-f0100,0200,00
-A0100
0100 mvi c,1f
0102 call 5
0105 rst 7
0106 <Carriage Return>
-d0100
0100 0e1fcd0500FF
-g0100
*105
-x
The contents of register HL is the address of Drive A: DPB. If you display that address
(mine was F5E3) you will see F5E3: 2400040F0154007F00C00020000200.
RPT = 0024 = The number of 128 byte records per track.
BSH = 04 = The block shift count.
BLM = 0F = The block mask.
EXM = 01 = The extent mask.
DSM = 0054 = Disk storage maximum (the largest block number).
DRM = 007F = Directory maximum (the largest directory entry).
DAB = 000C= Directory Allocation Block AL0: = 00 & AL1: = 0C
CKS = 00020 = Directory check size.
OFF = 0002 = Track offset (number of reserved tracks).
SPT: Number of sectors per track. May differ from RPT if physical sectors are other than
128 bytes in size.
NTK: Number of tracks (35, 40, 77, or 80). The number of tracks can be determined by
formatting a Floppy, or with Anadisk. Anadisk will also tell you the sector size and SKEW.
Quite frequently, the only information available when developing a definition for 22DISK is
a diskette with a few files and nothing more.
1. Get a copy of Sydex's ANADISK. This utility will furnish far more information than
will any other program. A typical disk definition follows:
DENSITY xx,xx
CYLINDERS x
SIDES xx
SECTORS x,xxxx
SKEW x
SIDE1 0 x,x1,x2,x3, , ,xn
SIDE2 x x,x1,x2,x3, , ,xn
ORDER x
BSH x
BLM x
EXM x
DSM x
DRM x
AL0 x
AL1 x
OFS x (or SOFS x)
COMPLEMENT (unlikely)
[title]
description = DESC The description of the format as shown by (for example) dskform–
help.
sidedness =TREATMENT How a double-sided disk is handled. This can either be alt
(sides alternate – used by most PC-hosted operating systems),
outback (use side 0 tracks 0-79, then side 1 tracks 79-0 – used
by 144FEAT CP/M disks), or outout (use side 0 tracks 0-79, then
side 1 tracks 0-79 – used by some Acorn formats). If the disk is
single-sided, this parameter can be omitted.
cylinders = COUNT Sets the number of cylinders (usually 40 or 80).
heads = COUNT Sets the number of heads (usually 1 or 2 for single- or double- sided).
sectors = COUNT Sets the number of sectors per track.
secbase = NUMBER Sets the first sector number on a track. Usually 1; some Acorn
formats use 0.
secsize = COUNT Sets the size of a sector in bytes. This should be a power of 2.
datarate = VALUE Sets the rate at which the disk should be accessed. This is: HD, DD,
SD or ED.
rwgap = VALUE Sets the read/write gap.
fmtgap = VALUE Sets the format gap.
fm = Y or N Sets the recording mode - Y for FM, N for MFM.
multitrack = Y or N Sets multitrack mode.
skipdeleted = Y or N Sets whether to skip deleted data.
diskdef title
seclen xxx #= Sectors xx,1024
tracks xx #= (Cylinders * Sides) = 80*2 = 160
sectrk xx #= Sectors 5,xxx
blocksize xxxx #= (128*(BLM+1)) = 2048
maxdir xxx #= (DRM+1) = 256
skew x #= may be 1 thru 6, or so
boottrk x #= OFS = 2
os x.x #= 2.2, or 2, or 3
end
So, if you know the 22DISK parameters, you can easily fill in the details for LIBDSK &
CPMTOOLS. As an example, here is an AMPRO LITTLE BOARD DSDD 96 tpi 5.25"
Definition for all three software packages.
[amp4]
description = Ampro - DSDD 96 tpi 5.25"
sides=alt #=/* XXX Provisional depending on 22DISK Definition */
cylinders = 80 #= Cylinders = 80
heads = 2 #= Sides = 2
sectors = 5 #= Sectors 5,xxx
secbase = 17 #= First Sectors from (SIDE1 0 17)
secsize = 1024 #= Sectors xx,1024
datarate = DD #= Data Rate = SD, DD, HD, ED
rwgap = 12 #=/* XXX Provisional */
fmtgap = 23 #=/* XXX Provisional */
fm = N #= FM or MFM (Likely MFM)
multitrack = N #= Most likely N
skipdeleted = Y #= Most likely Y
diskdef AMP4
seclen 1024 #= Sectors xx,1024
tracks 160 #= (Cylinders * Sides) = 80*2 = 160
sectrk 5 #= Sectors 5,xxx
blocksize 2048 #= (128*(BLM+1)) = 2048
maxdir 256 #= (DRM+1) = 256
skew 0 #= may be 1 thru 6, or so
boottrk 2 #= OFS = 2
os 2.2 #= 2.2, or 2, or 3
end
2. Run ANADISK on the diskette in SECTOR EDIT mode with the display set for
"HEX".
Note that the interleave (or SKEW) is given, as well as the number, size and addresses
of sectors. You now have data for: DENSITY, CYLINDERS, SIDES, SKEW SIDE1 and
SIDE2.
3. Locate the directory on the diskette. Almost invariably, it starts on the first sector of a
track. If for some reason it can't be found on the first sector of a track, try using the
SEARCH feature to find a "FILE" name that exists on the disk. The number of tracks or
sectors up the point where the directory begins will give the figure for OFS or SOFS. The
directory stands out because it shows file names every 32 bytes, or every other line on the
ANADISK display.
Fig 1
0000 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0010 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0020 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0030 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0040 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0050 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0060 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0070 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0080 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0090 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
00a0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
00b0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
00c0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
00d0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
00e0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
00f0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0100 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0110 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0120 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0130 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0140 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0150 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0160 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0170 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0180 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
0190 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
01a0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
01b0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
01c0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
01d0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
01e0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
01f0 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 e5 ................
Fig 2
4. Examine the first directory entry. The second 16 bytes (the second line of the entry)
gives a list of allocation unit numbers (AUN) belonging to the file. The first one of these
will tell how many allocation units have been reserved to hold the directory. Thus, if the
first allocation byte is 02, two allocation units have been allocated to the directory. Another
thing to note is whether the allocation unit number appears to be an 8 bit or 16 bit quantity.
For example, if an entry has the following form:
00 50 49 50 20 20 20 20 20 43 4F 4D 00 00 00 10 .PIP COM....
04 00 05 00 06 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................
the allocation unit designators are 4, 5 and 6 and are 16 bit quantities. On the other
hand, the following item:
00 50 49 50 20 20 20 20 20 43 4F 4D 00 00 00 10 .PIP COM....
04 05 06 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ................
shows the same allocation units, but as 8 bit quantities. If 16 bit quantities are involved,
more than 255 allocation nits are defined for the diskette, if an 8 bit quantity, less than 256
units. This serves as a check for later computations. In any case, the first allocation number
of the first directory entry gives the number of bits to be set in AL0 and AL1.
Allocation Unit Number (AUN)
02 AL0 11000000B Al1 0
04 AL0 11110000B Al1 0
The following information shows a detailed breakdown of all the information in the the
first and second directory entries.
00 - Valid file (E5 for Erased File)
32 32 44 49 53 4b 20 20 44 4f 43 - File name 22DISK DOC (11 bytes)
00 - Extent (used for large files)
00 - S1 (Digital Research Reserved)
00 - S2 (Digital Research Reserved)
80 - Number of records in this extent
02 00 03 00 04 00 05 00 06 00 07 00 08 00 09 00 - allocation units
5. Starting with the first directory sector, advance the sector (and track, if necessary)
until you find the data belonging to the first file. Unused directory entries are almost always
filled out with a pattern of E5's. The number of sectors dedicated to the directory will give
an indication of both the number of directory entries and the allocation unit size.
Fig 3
Suppose that a our hypothetical diskette shows 8 sectors of 512 bytes allocated to the
directory. Since a directory entry is 32 bytes long, the number of directory entries possible
for this format is:
Thus, DRM is one less than this or 127. Since we know that these 8 sectors represent 2
allocation units or 4,096 bytes, the Allocation Unit Size (AUS) is:
+------------+---------+----------+
| Unit Size | BSH | BLM |
+------------+---------+----------+
| 1,024 | 3 | 7 | +----------+
| 2,048 | 4 | 15 | ------+ This one |
| 4,096 | 5 | 31 | +----------+
| 8,192 | 6 | 63 |
| 16,384 | 7 | 127 |
+------------+---------+----------+
7. We still need a value for EXM and DSM. DSM is simply the total number of
allocation units on the diskette, not counting the system OFS area. Let's assume that our
diskette has an offset of 2 tracks and is single-sided with 40 cylinders with 8 sectors per
track. The value of DSM is then:
8. That's almost the complete picture, but for the SIDE1 and SIDE2 sector ordering. This
is the hardest to determine of any of the parameters. Find a readable text file on the diskette
and piece the text back together by observing how words break across sector boundaries.
After a bit, a pattern in the ordering will become apparent, such as:
1, 3, 5, 7, 2, 4, 6, 8
By formatting a disk the number of tracks can be determined, which will give the first
byte to look for. The SPT will be followed by 00 and the value for BSH and BLM will be
the third and fourth bytes.
BSH 3 or 4 or 5 or 6 or 7
BLM 7 or 0F or 1F or 3F or 7F
1.
Q. How do I upgrade a Model I to a disk system?
A. The Model I is a modular system so you need to plug in additional
hardware to upgrade the machine to a disk system. Before you start you
need to make sure your keyboard unit is 16K and Level II Basic. You
can't add disks to a 4K or Level I system. You need an Expansion
Interface, which has the floppy disk controller inside it, and an external
disk drive. When buying these things from eBay, CraigsList etc., bear in
mind you need the interconnect cables from the keyboard to the
Expansion Interface, and the disk drive cable. Also remember the
Expansion Interface needs it's own power supply so make sure it comes
with one. The Expansion interface holds up to 32K extra memory, and
it's advisable to make sure you get one of these, or the additional 16K
chips to upgrade a 16K or 0K EI to 32K. You then need to choose a DOS,
see below.
3.
Q. I have a 4K Level 1 Model I - how do I upgrade it to 16K and Level II
BASIC?
A. Although not as rare as the Level I Model III, the Level I Model I is
still pretty hard to find. If you find one I would keep it that way for
posterity. At the time of writing good numbers of 16K Level II Model Is
are still easily found for sale for reasonable prices. Ask around the
internet forums or TRS-80 resellers.
4.
Q. What is a double-density adapter and how do I install one?
A. In it's standard form a Model I diskette is single density and holds
about 89K of data per disk. Radio Shack designed the system to be able
to address up to 4 disk drives, and 356K of online storage was
considered good for 1978 - as capable as other similar systems of the
time. By 1980 disk drives became more sophisticated, diskettes more
reliable and double density operation was perfected, and implemented no
newer computers like the Model III. Companies made adapters which
installed inside the Expansion Interface which added the necessary
circuitry and double density FDC to allow the Model I to operate in double
density. Even Radio Shack eventually made their own doubler. The
main benefit of a doubler is to be able to store more programs on each
disk, and as new programs got bigger and more complex into the 1980s,
larger disk capacity was a desirable feature. A single density disk may
hold the DOS plus three 16K games, but a double density disk will
typically hold 10-12 games in addition to the DOS. To install a doubler
you open your EI and remove the FD1771 disk controller chip and install
it on the empty socket on the doubler. You then install the doubler into
the vacated FDC socket in the EI, and you are done.
Picture: a Percom double-density adapter
5.
Q. My Model I is mostly reliable but it crashes from time to time.
A. The Model I was not particularly reliable but people who bought it
init ially didn't know any difference, it was about as reliable as every other
machine on the market in its price range, and random re-boots was just
part of the life of using a Model I, so you saved and backed up your disks
regularly. The main culprits are underwhelming design, software bugs,
and solder covered edge connectors.
ianm@trs-80.com
PLAY THE DOCTOR WHO ADVENTURE
ON YOUR TRS-80 MODEL I / III
by Ian Mavric
Last issue I wrote about the Dr Who adventure, a program written in the
early 1980s by a gentleman named Jim Smith from Newcastle in
Australia. The program can be found on Ira's web site if you want to play
it, the download is at http://www.trs-80.com/cgi-bin/down-ok-
model1.pl?drwhoadv.zip
PROGRAMMING TECHNIQUE
11 CLS:CLEAR500
12 V1$=CHR$(170):V2$=CHR$(149)
22 FORL=992TO224STEP-64:PRINT@L,V1$;:GOSUB 1000:NEXT
41 FORL=1TO70:READA,B:PRINT@A,CHR$(B);:NEXT
49 DATA 156,136,157,140,158,176,159,144,222,160,223,166,224,180
60 DATA
281,160,282,176,283,140,284,160,285,176,286,140,287,131,288,150,2
89,154,290,160,341,176,342,144,344,163,345,176,346,140,347,131,34
8,129,350,176,351,134,352,168,353,129,355,137,356,144
61 DATA
402,156,403,134,404,131,405,176,406,140,407,131,408,129,413,152,4
14,134,417,149,421,139,467,136,468,131,473,160,474,152,475,134,47
9,160,480,133,535,176,536,134,537,129,543,154
62 DATA
597,184,598,134,659,160,660,134,721,176,722,134,723,129,782,160,7
83,152,784,134,844,160,845,134,846,129,906,176,907,134,908,129,96
8,160,969,134
63 GOTO 71
70 CLS:CLEAR 500:REM upper cloud
71 C1$=CHR$(190)+STRING$(45,191)+CHR$(189):C2$=CHR$(174)
+STRING$(47,191)+CHR$(157):C3$=CHR$(139)+STRING$(45,143)
+CHR$(135):GOTO 91
80 PRINT@8,C1$:PRINT@71,C2$:PRINT@136,C3$:RETURN
91 C4$=CHR$(160)+CHR$(190)+STRING$(45,191)+STRING$(10,143)
+STRING$(5,131):C5$=CHR$(174)+STRING$(40,191):C6$=CHR$(175)
+STRING$(45,191)+STRING$(5,176):GOTO 100
95 PRINT
96 PRINT@833,C4$:PRINT@896,C5$:PRINT@961,C6$;:RETURN
111 B=0
120 DATA
191,131,131,188,128,188,131,131,188,128,188,131,131,140,128,131,1
91,131,128,188,131,131,188,128,191,131,131,188
121 DATA
191,176,176,143,128,143,176,176,143,128,143,176,176,140,128,128,1
91,128,128,143,176,176,143,128,191,131,139,180
130 FORL=71TO98:READA:PRINT@338+B,CHR$(A);:B=B+1:NEXT
132 B=0:FORL=1TO28:READA:PRINT@402+B,CHR$(A);:B=B+1:NEXT
141 B$=CHR$(191)+CHR$(191)
145 DATA
0,66,130,196,134,70,8,74,138,204,142,78,16,20,84,148,212,86,88,26,9
0,154,218,94,158,32,34,224,226,100,164
149 FORL=1TO31:READA:PRINT@A+525,B$;:NEXT
155
FORT=1TO5:PRINT@0,C$;C$;C$;:GOSUB80:GOSUB1000:PRINT@832,C$
;C$;C$;:GOSUB 96:GOSUB 1000:NEXT
165 PRINT@320,C$;C$;C$;C$;C$;C$;C$;:PRINT@475,"DOCTOR";
170 DATA
535,165,600,169,537,154,538,160,602,169,539,154,541,181,605,149,5
42,176,543,186,607,170,545,150,546,131,547,169,609,165,610,176,61
1,154
171 FORL=1TO17:READA,B:PRINT@A,CHR$(B);:NEXT
175
FORT=1TO5:PRINT@0,C$;C$;C$;:GOSUB80:GOSUB1000:PRINT@832,C$
;C$;C$;:GOSUB96:GOSUB1000:NEXT
176 PRINT@460,C$;C$;C$;
180
FORT=1TO5:PRINT@0,C$;C$;C$;:GOSUB80:GOSUB1000:PRINT@832,C$
;C$;C$;:GOSUB96:GOSUB1000:NEXT
999 STOP
1005 FORP=1TO60:NEXT
1010 RETURN
A COMPETITION, ANYONE?
Dusty and I like the idea of a competition to see who can design the best
Dr Who graphical re-creat ion of its iconic title sequence on a TRS-80
Model I/III, II/4/12/16/6000, or Coco 1-2-3. Chose any Dr Who title
sequence you like, and upload a video to Youtube and email your entry to
Dusty. Judging will be by Dee, in December, and the prize will be a
FreHD, delivered in January 2015. So you have 6 months to complete
and submit your masterpiece. Language and memory requirements are
open, as are hardware and memory requirements. Do you have a Hi-Res
Model 4 with 128K memory and can program in Z80 assembly language?
Then a killer Tom Baker intro would look incredible:
ianm@trs-80.com
TESTING THE Z80 ADDRESS LINES
Larry Kraemer
With a Z80 address line tester, you can test all address lines on any logic
board that uses a Z80 chip.
When the Z80 receives instruction hex 00 (a NOP), it does nothing ex-
cept increment the program counter (PC) and reads the next instruction.
If the next instruction is also a NOP, the microprocessor is forced to
count through all 65,536 (2^16) possible addresses on its l6-bit address
bus.
If you then monitor the address bus lines with an oscilloscope, each ad-
dress line will display a square wave, with a period twice that of the next
lower address line. This gives you a predictable set of signals to trace.
TOOLS REQUIRED
1. Wire cutters
2. Soldering iron
3. Solder
PARTS REQUIRED
PROCEDURE
3. Plug the Z80 into the wire wrap socket. Make sure that its notch
faces in the same direction as the notch on the wire wrap socket (see
Figure 24-1).
Operation of test assembly:
1. Remove the Z80 CPU from the board to be tested, and set it aside.
2. Install the test assembly (with a known good Z80) in the wire wrap
socket. Make sure that the notch faces in the same direction as that on
the other chips.
3. Apply power to the logic board.
4. Inspect the address lines for the wave forms listed in Table 24-1.
5. If you do not detect any pulses on the address lines, check for the fol-
lowing signals:
Pin 11 +5V
6 Phase 0 clock
18 HALT (should be high)
24 WAIT (should be high)
26 RESET (should be high)
Figure 24-1 shows a top and a bottom view of the wire wrap socket.
Table 24-1
Expected Wave forms
Fig 24-1
The BEST in TRS-80s
Call The Right Stuff
Ask for Ian
The number is +61 416 184 893
http://ianmav.customer.netspace.net.au/trs80/
In this iss
u e of
Exchanging my model 4P keyboard.
Hans Reitveld
If you are not familiar with this type of keyboard it is very different to
the usual QWERTY one and can be quite aukward to use if you're not
use to it.
After rebuilding the computer and adding all kind of options, such as
extra RAM, hard disk, extra floppy etc., I then had to solve the
keyboard problem.
Loading a U.S. Version of LS-DOS solved part of the problem. The keys
were at the right location now, but the key caps were showing the
wrong characters.
I was looking for a used keyboard for weeks without any luck so I
decided to use special keyboard stickers to do the job.
The result was better than I expected, see picture AZERTY1, but some
problems remained.
The punctuation characters were moved and the numeric keys on the
right part of the keyboard did not work.
At last Ian (Mav) came to the rescue with a nice QWERTY keyboard,
which he sold to me and after a few weeks waiting for the post, I
could, at last, get to work and start to exchange it.
After opening the computer and disconnecting the cable, there was a
problem! The old one had 20 wires and the new one only sixteen.
Now the wires 9 up to 16. On the QWERY keyboard they went to the
key columns, forming a matrix to detect each different key press.
On the AZERTY keyboard they went to the output of a set of two hex
buffer chips.
The input of each buffer went to the same column as the wires on the
the AZERTY keyboard.
On the keyboard, there are two more chip performing timing and
debounce logic. These chips are powered by the thick cable on wire 17
and 19. The Wires 18 and 20 are not connected.
Restarting the computer and testing all the keys showed me that the
swap was very successful.
If you met this problem and want some help, please mail me.
Hans.
AZERTY 1
AZERTY 2
AZERTY 3
QWERTY 1
LOOKING FOR FAST,
INEXPENSIVE, UNLIMITED MASS
STORAGE FOR YOUR TRS-80
MODEL I/III/4/4P/4D?
The amazing
"FreHD"
-Emulates a TRS-80 hard drive, but faster than any hard drive!
-Works with your favourite DOS (LS-DOS, LDOS, CP/M, Newdos/80 2.5)
-Uses SD card for storage medium
-Bonus free Real Time Clock function!
-Designed in Belgium and proudly built and shipped from Australia
-Kit form or fully assembled
The first thing I did was to open the computer and clean everything that
I could reach. I put it on a table and turned it on. It ran fine for about
ten minutes and then a flash and some flames! The power supply was
burning. I quickly turned off the power and put out the flames. It seemed
that one of the filter capacitors was blown. I could reach the capacitor by
loosening the upper of three mounting nuts and bolts and placing a’
spacer’ between the PCB and the metal frame, which gave me just
enough room to replace the blown and a second capacitor.
I turned the computer on again and went searching on the internet for
an operating system. After a short time I noticed there was a burning
smell coming from the computer so I decided to start looking for the
source! It turned out to be the keyboard connecter, which was burning
hot. I turned the computer off and opened the keyboard connector and
found that three wires had melted together and were still smoking! I re-
placed the keyboard cable and connector, but, after that, the computer
would not power up. There was nothing, only the horrible sound of just
the fan running. No lights or any disk activity whatsoever. It seemed that
the power supply was down. No 5 volts anymore.
I could not find an obvious reason why, so I decided to take out the
power supply, a difficult and time consuming job as the video controller
and the power supply are build together on one support and you need to
take them out together. However, this allowed me to see the problem.
The power supply is protected against overloading by dumping part of
the current into a resistor, this in turn, reduces the load. If this situation
takes too long, the fuse is blown. After replacing the fuse and refitting
the power supply, I booted the computer again, but found that I now had
no keyboard access.
Opening the keyboard didn’t show any obvious problems only that the
keyboard plug was not fixed to the cover. This was quickly repaired with
some hot glue. I checked the signals with the ‘scope‘ and found that this
showed all the lines were dead. I noticed that the ‘busy’ was low, (forcing
this line high returns the keyboard activity). Tracing back the busy line
took me to a 74LS74. I replaced this chip but this didn't help.
The problem(s) were turning out to be more serious than I had first
hoped. I also found that the CTC controller on the CPU board was partly
gone, however, I managed to source a new one in Germany and with this
replaced, I was beginning to think that all the major problems had been
solved.
The software on the internet was very sparse, but I managed to find an
operating system, but only in an IMD format. I was lucky in that my HxC
floppy emulator could read this format. Now I needed to build a con-
verter to connect my emulator to the external floppy bus. This was not
an easy job, but I succeeded by using a small PCB with two connectors
and a lot of wire-wrap wire.
There was still a problem with the termination so I added the termina-
tion on the PCB with four jumpers to turn it on or off, depending on what
was connected on the bus.
I'm very happy with my Model II, but all the problems I have encoun-
tered were much more than I initially had expected.
I noticed that every time I accessed the disk drive, the screen grew and
shrunk. This only happened when there is a ‘head-load’. When there is a
load, the screen shrunk and when the head is released the screen grew.
I was quite confident that it was not the power supply, or the magnetic
field from the disk drive.
I monitored the output values of the power supply and I didn’t see any
unexpected changes.
I also placed a metal sheet between the disk drive and the monitor and
there was no change in the behaviour of the monitor.
I began to think that the solution was in the hardware of the video board.
There is a lot of logic to disable video changes during some hardware ac-
tions and it could be that causing problems in those circuits. After check-
ing this out, I came up with some interesting ideas.
I added some wires between the head-load solenoid and put in a switch,
allowing me to turn off the head-load temporarily. Then, after booting, I
did a disc access without the head-load activated and the screen shrunk
just the same, so that confirmed is was not the solenoid.
I have removed the extra card on my pc, but it didn’t make any differ-
ence. The explanation about dropping the voltage on the power supply
doesn't help to explain the source of the problem.
The monitor display is only connected to the device through the + 12
Volt which I have monitored during disc access, but this looked stable.
The only other likely possibility is the clock generator on the video card.
This is 5 volt logic and could suffer from power drops during disc access.
It would be difficult to measure this circuit and would need a bus ex-
tender making, in order to do that. If the voltage of the oscillator
changes, the frequency will change and this would affect both the hori-
zontal and vertical frequency which would change the screen format. I
decided to keep on searching.
Then an even better idea came to me. Powering the monitor, only, from
an external stabilised 12 volt power supply. There is a connector just
above the power supply where the 12 volt is fed to the monitor part. It
would be easy to connect an external power supply there. A second solu-
tion could be to drain the 12 volt from the 24 volt source by means of a
12 volt integrated regulator (7812).
I checked the specificat ion of the monitor and the 24 volt supply and I
monitored the 12 volt supply again and found that the lost during disk
access is maximal of 0.4 volt.
If you take a look at the picture, you see a connector is placed on the
top of the power supply. On this connector you can make the modifica-
tion. It has a black, orange, brown and purple wire.
You need an external regulated 12 volt power supply, which needs to be
fitted anywhere in the
computer case. I found one on Ebay, but I have not received it yet, so I
don't know if it is usable.
But the specs are good and the size is perfect. Take a look at the pic-
ture.
On the schematic you can see how I connected the wires, but again,
please pay special attention to the resistor of 22 ohm. This will get very
hot so find a safe place to mount it.
The video board is a self supporting unit in the Model II and gets its only
ground by this connector, which I had to open. So I need a new ground
for the sync signals of the video board.
AC 110V/220V ± 20%
47/63Hz
12V
2A
(L*W*H)86*58*38mm
Metal case
This leaves me with one last irritating problem. The awful sound of the
fan (blower).
I have bought a new 220 volt fan but it seems that they all make this
awful noise. After my power supply modification, there is a now a new
option. As the 12 volt rail is now empty and loaded with only a dummy
load, there must be 12 volt fans of this size and with ceramic or sleeve
bearings.
The question was, that I was unsure if they supply enough air to cool the
system. This would be a very neat solution.
I found the perfect place for the power supply was just beside the floppy
drive. I attached it using two sided tape and a tie wrap. The result was,
as expected, no distortion of the video anymore.
It was easy to modify the drive select 0 and 1, by adding a switch on the
select jumpers. It is easier now to change the drive when using my HxC
emulator.
I could change the blower with the 12 volt version, without removing the
outer case.
Just by fixing the some spare screws to the bottom of the inside of the
computer case. The sound of the fan is now reduced by half. Some of the
sound is produced by the motor of the disk drive and another part is pro-
duced by the airflow and the vibrations of the case. Lowering the speed
of the fan by adding 3 diodes in the supply line makes the sound toler-
able.
Just take a look at the pictures for the details.
Some remarks about the fan.
To reduce the vibrations you can, according to the service manual do the
following.
Tighten the four nuts from the fan down and wait a while, then turn them
one by one, about 4 turns back, then turn them on with your fingers.
Optionally, you can mount small rubber o-rings on the screws. One be-
tween the fan and the bottom and a second one on the fan, beneath the
washer and the nut.
In order to reduce the speed, you can put some diodes in series with the
plus wire. A better idea is to place a speed regulator between the fan and
the power supply. They are easy to find on Ebay, eg. Zallman. It is pos-
sible to place the speed adjust control between the video controls on the
front.
These have not seen or tested, this is just for information only.
Here, I’ve added a list of additional modifications I have carried out to fur-
ther reduce the noise of the fan.
I have added 2 rubber o-rings above and below the fan, two o-rings on
each bolt.
I have replaced the rubber feet at the corners of the case with thicker and
softer pads
The head spindle of the disk drive needed a few drops of oil.
As a starting point I chose the Model I, and future instalments will follow
the TRS-80 line chronologically, so next time will be the Model III, then
the Model 4NGA in the issue after that, then the 4P and finally the Model
4GA/4D. For those people who don't want to wait for future editions, just
email me and I'll explain how to upgrade your Model III/4/4P/4D.
1. Check Z3 and make sure all 8 shunts are in place. If they aren't, in-
stall a switch block so all 8 shunts connect. (Typically Level II systems
with the daughterboard will have all shunts in place, and Level II systems
without a daughterboard will have 7 of the 8 shunts in place.)
4. Program your 27C256 and prepare it as follows. Bend out pins 20, 23,
26. Clip the pin portions from pins 1,2,27,28, leaving just the tabs left to
solder wires to.
Solder a purple wire joining pins 1 and 28, and leave a short 5cm length
of purple wire.
Solder a 5cm black wire to pin 20.
Solder a 20cm orange wire to Pin 26.
Solder a 10cm yellow wire to Pin 23.
Solder a 15cm red wire to Pin 2.
Solder a 30cm grey wire to Pin 27.
5. Insert the prepared 27C256 into Z33 with pins 1,2,27,28 overhanging
at the front of the IC. Make sure none of these pins contact anything, or
each other. Also confirm that pins 20, 23 and 26 of the Eprom don't go
into the holes in Z33's socket.
6. Solder wires to motherboard:
Black wire to a source of GND (thick rail directly below Z33/34)
Purple wire to a source of +5V (solder point directly above Z34 pin 24)
Referring to the notes you took earlier, solder the yellow A11, red A12,
and orange A13 wires to the points noted in step 2 or 3. Solder them on
the component side of the PCB, confirming you have the correct place
with a mult imeter.
7. The one wire (grey) you have left over is the A14 line from the Eprom,
and when high selects FreHD auto boot, and low selects regular Level II
Rom. Mount a toggle switch on your Model I case somewhere, and run
the grey wire to the centre pole. Wire the other two poles of the toggle
switch to the GND line and the +5V line and the modification is complete.
Power up and test the machine. You may need to turn down the voltage
at R5 and R10 (refer to TRS-80 Tech Ref manual 26-2103 page 60) be-
cause the single Eprom replaces high-power drawing devices (Z33 and 34
or the daughterboard assembly).
If problems crop up they will when you first power the machine up. First
power up the computer without the Expansion Interface connected and
run test routines to make sure the computer works properly. If the sys-
tem fails to start check all the wires, that there are no solder-bridges
shorting something out. It's possible if the Eprom had a bad burn then
they system will not run, so unsolder all wires and go back to the regular
Level II Rom set. Confirm the computer still runs and then go over the
instructions and burn a new Eprom if needed, and try again. I've up-
graded several machines this way and at least three other people have
successfully made the modificat ion as well.
I'd like to thank Dean Bear for all his hard work in coming up with this
solution for Model I owners.
Ian Mavric
ianm@trs-80.com
This article describes the fun I had interfacing the 'Electronic R/W System
Model 25-300' to my Nascom 1. The peripheral itself, whilst certainly
electronic and a read/write system, is probably better described as a
cartridge/wafer drive, although I have seen it described in some
magazines as a 'Stringy-Floppy'. I feel that this is a misleading and
unnecessary name.
I received a deck and control board, and for further payment, a box of
wafers, which were of assorted lengths, from 5 to 50 feet, giving 20 to
200 second of recording time. These cartridges consist of an endless loop
of magnetic tape with an End Of Tape (EOT), which is also the Beginning
Of Tape (BOT) marked by a piece of reflective tape.
Unlike many pieces of kit, this drive came with very adequate
documentation but with no case or mounting brackets. Any capable
metalworker with nothing more than a small lathe, milling machine and a
borer could knock uo a suitable mounting in a few weeks! Anyway, I
hacked and puffed and blew and finally mounted it in such way which I
don't think it will expose me to public ridicule. I feel more confident on
the grounds of electronics and program design so I'll hastily move on!
The drive demands very modest +5V and +12V supplies and in return
offers the following interfaces on a small edge connector :-
Input Output
Start Motor EOT detected
Fast Speed on Motor Wafer is Write Protected
Enable Writing Serial Data from Wafer
Select Deck
Serial Data for Recording
The beauty of the 'Select Deck' input is that when it is held false,
everything in sight goes into high impedance state and consequently,
more than one deck may be connected together.
The hardware interface wins no prizes for complexity but is very
adequate. (A schematic from the original article is show at the end of this article ED).
There are LED's, which are necessary because once the wafer is inserted
into the drive, it is impossible to see whether there is a Write Protect tab
attached.
The 100K resistor pulling up to the UART serves not only to make the
pulses nicer but it is essential because when the deck is not selected the
Data Out line goes high impedance and picks up all sorts of rubbish. And
what does the Nascom do when it is idle? It picks up rubbish and displays
it at great speed on the screen making it impossible to type a command
in to select the deck again and stop the monitor picking up the rubbish!!
I must be honest and admit that the resistor was not part of the original
design.
After building a simple interface and a few test programs I felt ready to
fill my second 2708 socket with the 'Hobbs Un-copyrighted Cartridge
Operating System'. Surely a most impressive title. Here I tempered good
design techniques (I design computer systems all day as well) with the
knowledge that it all has to fit into 1K bytes plus whatever I could save
by taking 'Dump' and 'Load' out of Nasbug. The original 4 layer design
has reduced to 3 layers :-
B) File level interface which sits on top of the drive level interface and
offers routines for
create a file
erase a file
open a file
writing a sector to a file
reading a sector to a file
returning the status of the file
C) Operator level interface which sits on top of both the other levels and
which offers the following commands, augmenting those of Nasbug
i) Drive level commands
W3 rewind the wafer in drive 3 and initialise the PIO
V5 display the catalogue of file on the wafer in drive 5
P6 1234 initialise a new wafer in drive 6 as number 1234
ii) File level commands
R5:PRINTFILE remove the file named 'PRINTFILE' from the
wafer in drive 5
A3:PRINTFILE 12 add a file named 'PRINTFILE' 12 sectors long
to the wafer in drive 3
L3:PROGFILE load the object code in file named 'PROGFILE' on
the wafer in drive 3
D1:PROGFILE 400 800 dump the contents of memory between
400H and 800H to the file named 'PROGFILE' on the wafer in
drive 1
So what does the tape actually look like when viewed under a magnetic
microscope, how are the sectors formatted, what does the directory look
like, how do I fit it into 1K bytes? Indeed, can I?
When you have only 1K bytes of memory do not stick too rigidly to
the strict layering of design.
IN MAV'S WORKSHOP
Ian Mavric
We see it has a number of large 24, 28, or 40 pin chips which are logi-
cally laid out and while the board may look imposing, especially when re-
pairs are needed, if you know what each part does you can logically track
down problems fairly quickly.
U1: Z80A CPU - Needs to be a Z80A, I have seen boards which have a
plain Z80 which is not fast enough to run at 4MHz in Model 4 mode for
any length of time. If your computer won't start check for CLK signal on
Pin 6.
U4 (ROM B/C) and U29 (ROM A): Model III Basic and boot disk routine.
When we upgrade a M4GA to FreHD auto-boot, U4 is replaced with a pro-
grammed EPROM.
Address Decoder - if the computer won't get past a junk screen, and you
know the memory chips are all OK and that there is a CLK signal on Pin 6
of the Z80A, suspect this chip.
U11 SC80756P: CRT Controller - controls the video sync on the screen -
if you have lost horizontal or vertical sync that can't be adjusted by the
controls on the Video PCB, then suspect this chip.
U16 HM6116P: Video RAM chip - if you see spelling errors on the screen
or characters is missing but the software otherwise works properly, sus-
pect this chip.
Video Gate Array - works in conjunction with U11, U16, and U19 to dis-
play information on the CRT. When this chip fails, nothing will be visible
on the CRT, even though the computer still runs and responds to com-
mands.
U64 WD8116: Baud Rate generator - if the serial port doesn't work or if
some of the baud rates work and others don't, suspect this chip. But
check other RS232 problems below on chips U82, U83 and U84 (below).
U75 WD1773 Floppy Disk Controller chip: industry standard double den-
sity floppy disk controller. If the computer works in cassette mode but
won't boot known good disks from known good disk drives (as tested on
another computer) then suspect this chip or U76.
RS232 support gate array, controls the interface between the RS232 se-
rial port (U64, U84, U81, U99, U100) and the processor. If diagnostic
software reports no RS232 port installed, suspect this chip.
The M4GA motherboard was such a good design that it allowed Radio
Shack, two years later, to take a great computer and install new modern
double-sided disk drives, add an extra key and a new nameplate, and
bingo the "Tandy TRS-80 Model 4D Microcomputer System" was born.
Yes, the 4D uses the M4GA motherboard. The 4D was on the market for
another four years making the M4GA motherboard one of the longest
production motherboards in any Tandy/TRS-80 series.
Ian Mavric
ianm@trs-80.com
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE FOR
"NO BOOT" PROBLEMS -- TRS-80 MODEL 4
Larry Kraemer
1. The very first thing to VERIFY is the Proper Voltages of the Power
Supply(s). The Radio Shack Model 4 shipped with one of two
manufacturer's Power Supplies, Astec & Tandy.
Both have three Output Voltages:
+5.00 VDC -- Must be within 3%.
-- Power Supply regulates from +5 VDC and +12.00 VDC, so
these must be correct.
+12.00 VDC -- 5%
-12.00 VDC -- +25%, -8.3%
The Model 3 and Model 4 also have a -5.0 VDC Supply, either behind the
Motherboard (Model 3) or located on the Motherboard (Model 4 - Q5).
This is generated from the -12 VDC Supply, with a 7905
Voltage Regulator, and is ONLY used with 4116B RAM Chips (16 x 1).
2. Verify Jumpers for 16K or 64K RAM IC's -- These are located
immediately above the RAM IC's.
While this doesn't rule out a defective: CPU, Buffer, Video Controller,
RAM, Video RAM, or something fiddling with an Address or Data Line, it is
a good sign to have Garbage Characters or repeating Characters on the
Display. The Computer is at least trying to boot.
My Motherboard says 1982 and has the following numbers -- 8709296
Rev C 1700219
It is a Non-Gate Array Motherboard.
Check CPU (Power, GND, CLK, & Control Signals that are INPUTS to CPU:
/WAIT, /INT, /NMI, /RESET)
These Signals are Active LOW, and must NOT BE STUCK LOW, for Z80 to
boot properly.
RESET is the ONLY one you can easily manually activate, by the RESET
Pushbutton.
If you have any of the INPUT Control Signals (/WAIT, /INT, /NMI, /
RESET) that are STUCK LOW all the time, that problem has to be tracked
down, and repaired.
Don't forget that most of these Control Signals are created by using
PULLUP Resistors that are bussed, in a SIP Package.
Pin 1 is COMMON to all other Pins and from the Common Pin to any other
Pin is 4.7K OHMS
(RP2). +5.00 VDC is applied to Pin #1, and all other Pins of the SIP are
PULLED UP to +5.00 VDC.
Logic Chips at different locations take a Pin on the SIP to GND to produce
the Active LOW Signals.
TIP:
When unplugging or plugging in the flimsy ribbon cables on top of
the Motherboard, use an ordinary wooden lead pencil placed
under the sharp bent. Then grip the flimsy cable with your
fingers and easily remove or replace it. Be careful as these flimsy
cables are fragile.
My Clock Signal now looks like a normal clock signal. All Address Bus
signals look normal too. All CPU Control Signals are now in the correct
state:
5. In addition to checking the CPU, it's a good idea to check the two SIP
Resistors RP1
(820 OHM) & RP2 (4.7K) in two different ways. Check each one with an
O'Scope while the
CPU is inserted in the CPU Socket, and with the CPU Removed from the
socket. That way you can get a good check on the Signals that control
the CPU. You may even want to remove an IC, then insert a IC Socket
and insert a new Chip. That will allow you to Toggle the Control Signal
that will end up being the INPUT Control Signal for the CPU. U61 or U62
would be a good example of an IC that may need to be inserted into a IC
Socket so the /INT or /WAIT Signals
could be VERIFIED. In the table below you can write in the actual OHM
value for each Pin and circle the pulse state as HIGH or LOW.
6. At this point you need to verify each Address Line to make sure none
(A0-A15) are STUCK LOW or HIGH. To do this I use an old Z80 CPU, and
Bend the DATA Line Pins out so they won't go into the 40 Pin Socket. I
solder a Jumper wire from D0 THRU D7 and solder it to GND. Now, the
CPU is strapped to always get a 0x00 (NOP) on it's DATA Bus. The CPU
will increment the Program Counter, and Increment the Address Lines to
the next address. This way you can use your O'Scope to look at each
Address Line, making sure they are all toggling, and aren't STUCK HIGH
or LOW. You can even check the BUFFER IC's, Checking the INPUT side
versus the OUTPUT Side of the Buffer. You can also remove IC like
ROMS, Video Controller, Video RAM, and Buffers, to help Isolate the
Address Line problems, assuming those IC's are in sockets.
I removed all my 128K of RAM and now my Model 4 has this on the Video
Display.
It appears to be 0x40 & 0x13 (19 Decimal is the same Graphic Character
in the Model 4 manual)
TEST Circuit that has DATA Strapped to 0x00 (NOP) to test just the Z80
CPU.
Another Z80 Circuit that shows Circuit Details about RESET Button.
It might also be wise to keep in mind that you can also break out the
Clock Signal (CLK) and create a clock signal that you can manually toggle
to single step through the Address Lines.
A Pushbutton, fed with +5 VDC can be connected to a 74HC14, and fed
to the CLK Input of the CPU. If you do this, the RESET signal must be
HELD LOW longer than about 6 Clock signals to reliably reset the CPU, or
you will get odd results. So, just HOLD the RESET Pushbutton
DEPRESSED (Line LOW) and give the CPU 6 or 8 CLK Signal Inputs from
your CLK Pushbutton. The CPU should be correctly RESET. Now you are
just 65536 CLK pulses from verifying all the Address Lines.
You can now single step through all Address Lines, and check or chase
signals across the motherboard looking for problems.
Since I had trouble with the RP2 SIP 4.7K Resistor, I saw the RP1 SIP,
slightly left and a bit lower than the Z80 CPU. I was wondering if any of
those PULLUP resistors were not soldered good causing the same type of
problem. So, I used my O'Scope to look at each pin. All the Signals
were High. I just by chance stuck my O'Scope probe back on RP2, and
looked at ALL the Pins. When I got to Pin 5, I had a CRAZY looking
Signal for /WAIT. That feeds Pin 12 of a 74LS08 that goes from Pin 11 to
the CPU /WAIT CPU (Pin 24) Input. At that point I powered down, and
removed the CPU. Now, I had a CLEAN Signal on Wait.
I replaced the Z80 with a New Old Stock Z80B I had ordered years ago.
It finally works again.
http://eds-inc.com/product/leakseeker-89/
http://users.tpg.com.au/pschamb/lom.html
If you build yourself the milliohm adapter, it will work the same way as
the LeakSeeker. OHMING from a point on an Address Line to another pad
will give you a changing (decreasing) milliohm value as you approach the
SHORT.
http://www.electroniq.net/testers/el...t-diagram.html
http://edn.com/design/test-and-measu...acer-technique
http://electronics.stackexchange.com...ocation-on-pcb
Thanks.
Larry
This continuity tester produces a beep when there is a short, and does
not emit any sound when the circuit is interrupted, or when the resis-
tance along the circuit exceeds 1ohm. To prevent failure of sensitive
components, and for a long battery life, the tester injects a weak signal
in the circuit being tested.
When testing circuits, there are few times when Semiconductors, Transis-
tors, IC''s, will be tested as well as resistive devices. Furthermore, it is
possible that some parts will not withstand the excessive current and / or
voltage that testers inject into the circuit. For this reason a good tester
will test the PN junctions with low impedance (diodes, transistors) and
resistant. The tester must be sensitive enough to work with a weak sig-
nal.
Due to the large amplificat ion of the operational amplifier 741, current
and voltage for the test signal will be limited to 200 uA and 2 mV. The
difference in voltage between the inverting input (pin 2) and non-
inverting (pin 3) of the 741 is amplified considerably. Voltage falls out on
R2 ensure that operational amplifier become negative once the inverting
input has a greater potential than the non-inverting input. Non-inverting
potential entry can be increased by adjusting P1, so that the non-
inverting input is more positive than the inverting input. The Oscillator
N1 will generate a buzzer sound. Voltage falls to R2 is the result of a
good contact between terminals tester.
Circuit Diagram:
http://edn.com/design/test-and-measurement/4328211/Quickly-find-pc
-board-shorts-with-low-cost-tracer-technique
Most digital buses have at least 1Ω over the length of the run, but a
trace impedance of only 200 mΩ still has a 2-mV drop with 10-mA
current applied. Most lab-grade handheld DMMs can easily resolve to 1
mV. Because you are looking for relative values, the absolute accuracy
of the instrument isn't critical. However, the current must be constant
to achieve repeatable results, and you must isolate its current source
from the ground of the circuit under test.
A node can be any accessible part of the circuit path under test, such as
a via, a pad, or a test point (Figure 1). Note the current path: When
current is flowing between two nodes, a minute voltage drop occurs
across the two nodes. When the current doesn't flow between two
nodes, there is no voltage drop across those nodes.
To find the short in this example, put one DMM probe on any node on
Trace A and the other on any node on Trace B, and note the voltage
drop. In this example, if you had started with the positive probe on Node
1 and the negative probe on Node 5 and moved the negative probe to
Node 6, you would note a slight voltage drop. Next, you move the probe
to Node 7 and note that the voltage drop is equivalent to the voltage
drop at Node 6. From this test, you can deduce that the short must exist
between nodes 5 and 6 because no current flows from Node 6 to Node 7.
Then, move the positive probe to Node 2 and note a small voltage drop.
Continue down the line to Node 3 and note another small drop. Next,
probe Node 4 and note there is no voltage drop. You can now deduce
that the short must be between nodes 2 and 3 and nodes 5 and 6.
In this example, the short is between two node pairs, and you can isolate
the short only to those pairs. A little knowledge of the board layout and
common sense now come into play. You need to know only where the
two traces are adjacent between nodes 5 and 6 and nodes 2 and 3, and
you have found the most likely place for the short. If it is underneath a
component, you have to remove the component; removing the
component often removes the short. If the short is on an internal layer,
you may have to do some selective cutting and jumping to isolate the
short from the traces, but at least you minimize the number of cuts on
the board.
http://www.eetimes.com/author.asp?section_id=30&doc_id=1284424
A few weeks ago I was asked to look at a telecom PCB fresh out of
production with a small problem--the inventory EEPROM would not load
the card revision information, and a new EEPROM did not solve the
problem. I hunted up a card extender, blew off the dust, plugged it into
one of our test racks, and set the system control card to repeatedly
query the EPROM. I suspected the problem was one of the glue logic
devices controlling the EEPROM, but rather than recommend a shotgun
replacement of all the glue logic I decided to take a closer look first.
First clue – the scope showed the EEPROM serial data pin was stuck at a
logic high (Vdd power supply) voltage in spite of the control and clock
signals to the EPROM looking normal. Since the EPROM had already been
replaced, was there a short from this pin to Vdd?
Yes, the EEPROM output did measure about 0.1 ohms to Vdd on a DVM.
This 0.1 ohms is the normal reading of the probe wires, which sets the
low-resistance measurement limit of a DVM, so obviously there was a
‘dead short’ (approaching 0 ohms) somewhere along the length of the
trace that was connecting the output pin to a few other logic device
inputs and tri-state outputs. Maybe one of them was shorted to Vdd
inside a logic device?
With all the pins lifted off the trace I could still measure a dead short
between the trace to Vdd. This exonerated all the attached devices, the
short was hidden on the pcb somewhere along the branching run of that
trace. Visual inspection under a microscope showed nothing obvious.
Perhaps it was a solder bridge lurking where an external portion of the
trace ran underneath an IC package.Or perhaps was invisible inside the
pcb.
The short could be anywhere along the branches of the trace, and the
limitations of the DVM in ohmmeter mode made it useless for resolving
below 100 milliohms. Now it was time to get out the heavy artillery. Not
a current probe, you cannot clamp a current probe around a pcb trace.
But with the following procedure the physical location of a dead short is
relatively easy to locate.
Even when traces are buried on internal layers, measurement points are
where the trace is brought to outer layers through vias. It helps if you
know (from the pcb design artwork) or can deduce the internal paths of
the trace layout.
Inject the current – find convenient places to solder wires to the shorted
trace and Vdd. It doesn’t really matter where the current starts, it will
eventually end up at the short. A good place to solder a wire to Vdd is at
one end of a decoupling capacitor. Solder a second Vdd wire to another
point nearby. Another wire soldered to a via or component of the
shorted trace, and you’re in business.
Preset a lab power supply to about 0.4 volts open circuit, then short the
power supply output and set the current limit to 200 mA. You can always
increase the current later if needed. 0.4 volts is a safe starting point in
the event that you overlooked a device and did not lift its pin from the
trace; 0.4 volts will not bias input clamp diodes into conduction should
the short suddenly disappear. Then connect the power supply to the
trace and one of the Vdd test wires soldered onto the pcb.
Set the DVM to the millivolt range and connect one probe to the other
Vdd wire, this avoids measuring voltage dropped along the Vdd wire from
the supply. Touch the other DVM probe to the wire that is soldered to
the trace. You will read several millivolts, this is the voltage dropped
along the trace as the current flows to the short.
Now move the trace probe to the next access point (via or IC pad) and
note the measured voltage drop. If the drop reduces, you have moved
the probe closer to the short. If the drop does not change, there is no
current flowing along the branch whose two points you have just
measured.
Figure 1 below depicts a typical pcb trace routing, portions of the trace
can be on inner or external layers, vias bring inner layer trace portions to
the external layers for connection to surface mounted device pads. For
clarity most devices are not shown. Wires to the current-limited lab
power supply and DVM can be soldered to either vias or components that
are connected to the shorted trace and Vdd.
Figure 1: Typical trace route and via measurement points
With one DVM probe connected to Vdd through the connected wire, move
the other probe around to the vias of the shorted trace. Note the voltage
readings at each measurement point.
Via B measures 30 mV. If the trace is already on a surface layer and via
B is not part of the trace, pin 1 of the IC is a good point to measure
instead. Hmm, the trace runs underneath the IC on it’s way to via C.
Could there be a solder bridge between the trace and where it runs
between the IC pins? Via C measures the same 30 mV as via B or IC pin
1, obviously no voltage is dropped along this portion. Thus no current
flows here, so no short under the IC.
That leaves via E as the prime suspect. The current is draining into via E
and no farther.
For those who viewed the photos in my last article showing my new
facility for housing, running and enjoying my wonderful collection,
imagine that now looking like the back room in a charity shop just after
the collection truck has been unloaded (my apologies to any charity shop
workers and operators who may be reading this - you all do a very
wonderful job). I suppose metaphorically speaking a bomb has hit the
place. But that's an essential part of getting it all unpacked, placed
properly and being accessible for later pleasures. But this should be a
lesson to all of us - when we moved from Adelaide (South Australia) to
Melbourne (Victoria) we (the removalists) brought 84 cubic metres with
us – my wife says 45 of that was my old computer stuff but I can’t argue
with her for two reasons – one is she’s my wife and the other is she’s
right despite that.
Now for collectors it’s nice to know a little bit of the history of any
particular item so knowing that this machine came from a bakery in
Maitland is kind of a nice story to know and tell people. But it’s actually
extremely significant but I won’t expand on why until I introduce my
other Model 16 in the next issue because this little bit of trivia then
suddenly becomes hugely important, particularly given that the two
acquisitions were entirely independent of each other by way of time and
distance.
Another search of Ira’s cat numbers for 26-4154 showed that this is a
“Model II/12/16/6000 - Accessory - 15 Meg Hard Disk Kit – Primary”. The
catalogue price at the time was $2,495 (today $5,703.51). These
machines did ship already fitted with a (15MB) hard disk drive if so
ordered as catalogue number 26-6006 at a price of $6,999 (today
$16,000) – I don’t know about you but in the early 1980’s that was quite
a frightening amount of money I suspect.
The back also supports a parallel port and two serial connections. The
serial connections, while being RS-232C ports, have some differences.
Serial A allows asynchronous and synchronous transmission while Serial
B only allows asynchronous transmission.
Three operating systems were on offer from Radio Shack at the time TRS
-XENIX, TRSDOS-II and TRSDOS 2.0b. If the hard drive on this particular
machine is still viable it will be interesting to see what is installed on it (if
anything) and what other software may be there too. Hopefully it might
tell me a bit more about the machine’s origins and use.
Floppy discs could store about 600KB for a single sided and 1.2MB for a
double sided disc. I do have several hundred 8” floppy discs and some of
them are tending to go the way of the early hard drives of course with
the surface looking like a cracked and parched desert – it’s a common
problem. Fortunately lots of stuff I have has been relatively well stored
so it may still be OK but that’s part of the fun in getting this back up and
running. Anything that is still in its shrink wrap is gold of course.
The monochrome screen displays 80 x 40 characters – green on black or
black on green (reversed). The machine can display the “full ASCII set”
of characters and 32 graphic characters.
For input/output processing the machine uses the ever faithful Z80A and
for computational processing uses the 68000.
Hard drive specs are as follows:
Cylinders per track 306
Tracks per unit 1,836
Tracks per platter 612
Sectors per track 34
Bytes per sector 256
Average latency 8.3msec
Rotational speed 3,600rpm
Recording density 9,625bpi
Storage unformatted 19MB
Track density 345tpi
Storage formatted (Primary drive) 15.5MB
Storage formatted (Secondary drive) 15.9MB*
* I suppose 400KB back in those days was a huge amount of space and
worthy of getting a mention in the specs even though it was less that the
space on a single sided floppy. You could fit a remarkable amount of stuff
in 400KB back in 1984.
Well I hope that was of interest to TRS8BIT readers. Next article I hope
to give the other Model 16 similar treatment and join some dots on the
history of these two gentle giants.
ASK MAV
ABOUT THE TRS-80 MODEL 4P PORTABLE COMPUTER
by Ian Mavric
1.
Q. Compared to a present-day laptop, the 4P looks weird, was that as
portable as they could make a computer in 1983?
A. For a short period between 1981 and 1984, computer companies
produced what are termed "luggable" computers, and the 4P was one of
these. Others similar in design include the Osborne 1 and Executive,
Kaypro II-to-16 series, and the IBM Portable PC 5155. All feature small
CRT monitors, dual disk drives, full keyboards, and are mains operated.
They all approximate the size of a portable sewing machine, but to my
mind weigh slightly more. The 4P was one of the later ones and is a few
pounds lighter than Kaypros and the IBM. These 'portable' computers
could be lugged from site to site, and used anywhere AC power was
available. By 1985 LCD and battery technology had improved in
performance and decreased in price so much so that these luggable
computers were seen as obsolete and needlessly heavy. Once computers
like the TRS-80 Model 100 showed the way forward with a small,
lightweight LCD and battery-based notebook which could be used on
one's lap, development of luggables not so much slowed down but halted
completely. So did sales.
Pictures: Kaypo (left) and Osbourne (right) are similar luggables to the
4P
The buying public made their preferences felt when Tandy released the
4P and the Model 100 at the same time. The 4P lasted only two years on
the market whereas the Model 100 and its successors (the Tandy 102
and 200) continued to sell well for 7 or 8 years. This despite the fact
that by the time you outfitted your Model 100 with a Disk-Video interface
and a monitor it cost more than a 4P and still had less power.
2.
Q. My 4P has yellowed so much it looks like aged cheese. Can I do
anything about it?
A. This happens with some white Tandy computers and not others. The
Model 4 is made of the same high-impact ABS plastic but Tandy went one
step further and painted the plastic case with textured white paint. This
paint doesn't go yellow but its possible for the base can go yellow, as the
base isn't painted, only the top.
People have also painted their 4Ps which has given them a pleasant
appearance, just remember these computers were off-white when new,
as opposed to "paper" white.
4.
Q. I heard Tandy included a hard disk auto-boot routine in the 4P BIOS -
is this true?
A. When Tandy designed the 4P the team responsible for the BIOS
thought it would be neat to have the 4P auto-boot from a TRS-80 5Mb
hard disk drive without a hard disk start-up boot floppy. Previously all
TRS-80s required a boot floppy and so losing the boot floppy was
considered a good thing. However the method used required the hard
drive to be set up with a very specific set of hard drive parameters in
order for it to work, particularly in relation to the first partition of the
hard drive. Also, necessary patches to the hard disk operating system
were easy to flub, resulting in loss of information on drive. By the time
the 4P was ready for release, Tandy has discontinued the 5Mb hard drive
and was selling 10Mb, 12Mb and within a year, 15Mb hard drives, all of
which were basically incompatible with the 4Ps auto-boot method. A
decision at Tandy was to leave the routine undocumented.
5.
Q. I'd like to add double-sided disk drives to my 4P - is it hard?
A. It's fairly easy modification to make as the FDC on the 4P
motherboard is already capable of addressing double sided disk drives.
What you need is a pair of drives, such as Teac FD55-BR, which are 360K
double-sided double-density black faced disk drives. (You find them in
Tandy 1000s.) Also, need a cable which has all the teeth in place. Tandy
uses a cable with teeth pulled for drive select, but using double sided
drives need all teeth in place. Next you need to set the drive number but
setting the drive-select jumper on each disk drive. DS0 will be the
booting drive and DS1 the data drive. Typically one installs the DS0
drive closest to the CRT. Finally you need to drill new holes in the sheet
metal assembly which holds the disk drives. The type of disk drive
chosen by Tandy has the drive mounted about 0.5cm more forward than
standard drives, so you need to drill new holes so the replacement drives
fit flush with the front bezel of the 4P.
Once completed, verify the systems works properly still with normal
single-sided operating systems, then read the manual of your favourite
operating system about how to format double sided bootable disks, are
you are set.
ianm@trs-80.com
USEFUL PROGRAM FROM THE PAST... THAT
IS STILL USEFUL TODAY
PART 1: JOHN SCHEER'S MODEL 4 CRT SCREEN SAVER
This new series brings back great old programs from defunct magazines
from back in the day. Magazines like 80micro, Computer User, Computer
News 80, Micro-80 and 80-US had program listings for useful utilities.
Each issue I, or another regular TRS8Bit columnist, will present a pro-
gram that we used back in the day, and continue to use today.
If your Model 4 or 4P is on for hours or days at a time like mine are, you
should really benefit from using this program to make sure your CRT
lasts as long as the rest of your TRS-80 does.
ianm@trs-80.com
The BEST in TRS-80s
Call The Right Stuff
Ask for Ian
The number is +61 416 184 893
http://ianmav.customer.netspace.net.au/trs80/
In this iss
u e of
IN MAV'S WORKSHOP
by Ian Mavric
Some time ago I purchased a Model III off eBay which had the rare hi-
res graphics board installed. For those who are unaware, Tandy sold a hi
-res graphics board (Cat. No. 26-1125) which added 640x240 (153,600
pixels) hi-resolution graphics to the Model III1 . It was expensive and was
not initially supported by a lot of software. As time went on and Tandy
released the Model 4 and its version of the graphics board with the same
capabilit ies, more software came along, and the hi-res board became an
interesting and useful upgrade.
When my eBay Model III arrived it was smashed due to poor packing by
the seller and/or poor shipping by the carrier. The CRT and cabinet was
busted, but it turned out the rest of the machine was in pretty good
condition and the main guts of the machine looked pretty undamaged
and still worked. Pondering which way to move forward, I remembered
that Ira's www.trs-80.com site had details about how to make a Model III
graphics board work on the Model 42 , and this seemed like the perfect
opportunity to try out that project.
The hardware of the Model III hi-res board comprises of four parts: the hi
-res board assembly, a bus interconnect cable assembly, a video pass-
through cable, and a power cable (see picture). The upgrade only works
on Model 4 non-Gate Array systems. It won't work on Gate Array
systems due to differences in the video output section of the
motherboard. Check your Model 4 to see if it has a 2-pin power
connector hidden away near the power supply - most have them, it is
used to power network cards on Model 4 student workstations - but in
this case it will be used to power the hi-res board. If your Model 4
started out as a 16K diskless machine which has the two Model III-style
35-watt power supplies inside, then you will need to use the power cable
supplied with the hi-res board - it replaces the existing FDC power cable.
MODIFY THE MOTHERBOARD
U25 on the hi-res board gets a 74LS02 piggybacked onto it - only the
power pins (7 and 14), and you then run three wires: Pin 8 to Pin 21 of
the 50-pin I/O bus; Pin 9 to Pin 25 of the 50-pin I/O bus; and Pin 10 to
Pin 11 of U8 (a PAL chip). Lastly you need to cut the trace which
connected U25 Pin 8 to U8 Pin 11. With only one trace cut, I can also
easily go back to standard if needed in the future by unsoldering the
piggybacked 74LS02 and restoring the trace cut.
RE-ASSEMBLE YOUR COMPUTER
If you removed your hi-res board from a Model III then just connect it up
in the same manner on your Model 4. If not, it's pretty easy to work
out...
Now connect the hi-res board into the bus interconnect cable and mount
the whole aluminium chassis assembly in place where the previous RFI
shield was. Your Model 4, particularly if it was an international version,
may not have had an RFI shield fitted, if so examine the holes on the hi-
res board's aluminium chassis and the Model 4 electronics chassis and it's
pretty self explanatory where all six holes line up.
WIRE IT UP ALREADY!
On the back of the hi-res board you will see three connectors, a 2-pin
one, and two 6-pin ones. Plug the two-pin power cable into the 2-pin
connector. Motherboard video now runs via the hi-res board so the short
6-wire cable connects to the existing video output on the motherboard
and the right connector on the hi-res board. Finally the old video cable
which used to connect to the motherboard is connected to the middle
connector on the hi-res board, along with it's grounding strap (see
photo).
TESTING
Booting the system up it should run normally, and you can test it out
with hi-res programs. Fractals by Micro-Labs Inc3 . is a Model 4 program
which is one of my favourites, it boots quickly and will confirm the hi-res
board's operating status in a few minutes. Remember also to program in
hi-res BASIC, called "BASICG" you need copies of the special versions of
TRSDOS 1.3 from the 26-1125 kit and the TRSDOS 6.x disk from the 26-
1126 kit.
HISTORICALLY SPEAKING...
I wondered why Radio Shack itself went to the trouble of releasing a tech
bulletin about making the Model III hi-res board work on the Model 4...
surely anyone with a Model 4 would buy the new-design 26-1126 hi-res
board, as it was $100 cheaper than the Model III board. It made no
economic sense to Model 4 owners to buy a Model III board to install in a
Model 4. Then I remembered Radio Shack offered the 26-1123 Model III
-to-4 upgrade4 , which replaced the Model III motherboard with a Model 4
one. I can see a predicament where an owner of a hi-res Model III
wanted to upgrade to a Model 4 but re-use the hi-res board.
SOURCES OF HI-RES SOFTWARE
While not supported as extensively as the hi res graphics on the Apple ][,
IBM PC, or even the Coco, there is enough software to make interesting
use of the hi-res board if you know where to find it. The BASICG
language is similar to GW -BASIC on the IBM PC and Extended Colour
Basic on the Coco, with commands like LINE, CIRCLE and PAINT much
software can be easily modified to use on the Model III and 4. 80micro
regularly ran articles with hi-res software from the years 1985-87.
In a future article I may outline some of the better software for the hi-res
board and where to find it.
Ian Mavric
ianm@trs-80.com
References:
1. TRS-80 Catalogue RSC-9, September 1983, page 28.
2. http://www.trs-80.com/wordpress/zaps-patches-pokes-tips/hardware/
#m3graphics
3. http://www.trs-80.org/model-4-grafyx-solution/
The CoCo SDC is a home-brew project for the TRS-80 Colour Computer
(CoCo). It has been in various stages of development since 2009. The
original plan was to provide floppy controller emulation which worked in
conjunction with the DriveWire server. That idea was eventually scrapped
in favour of a self-contained system using an SD card.
An enhanced LBA access mode has also been incorporated into the
firmware, allowing the CoCo SDC to go beyond simply emulating floppy
disks and interface with virtual hard disk images as large as 2
gigabytes. Two separate disk images (floppy or hard disk) contained on
the same SD card may be "connected" simultaneously.
"FreHD"
-Emulates a TRS-80 hard drive, but faster than any hard drive!
-Works with your favourite DOS (LS-DOS, LDOS, CP/M, Newdos/80 2.5)
-Uses SD card for storage medium
-Bonus free Real Time Clock function!
-Designed in Belgium and proudly built and shipped from Australia
-Kit form or fully assembled
Only one part is needed, a 2716 EPROM which holds a modified version
of the code which was originally in ROM C. Once installed you will lose
the ability to CSAVE tapes at 1500 baud, as the FreHD auto -boot coding
resides in the place the CSAVE routine used to like. Fred Vecoven - the
designer of the auto-boot EPROM and indeed the FreHD itself - figured
this was a fair trade-off. Not many people have the need to record 1500
baud tapes anymore. And I am in full agreement.
System requirements: 48K Model III, disk or diskless system. You also
need a FreHD.
1. Open your Model III the usual way and remove the RFI shield covering
the motherboard (if fitted). Locate U106 (it's in the lower right-hand
corner of the motherboard) and remove the chip already installed. Burn
the file http://ianmav.customer.netspace.net.au/downloads/model3rom-
C2.bin to a 2716 EPROM and insert it into U106. Re-assemble computer
and make sure it runs properly before connecting FreHD.
On the Model 4:
Auto-boot FreHD systems require a special image file (at this stage) and
fortunately we have put all the popular Model III/4 operating systems
into a single ZIP file you can download from: http://
ianmav.customer.netspace.net.au/downloads/FreHD%20Self%20Boot%
20Start%20Files.zip LS-DOS 6.3.1, CP/M 2.2, LDOS 5.3.1 and
Newdos/80 V2.5 (obviously only the last two work on the Model III) and
a small file called frehd.rom which is the menu system.
CONCLUSION:
I'd like to mention Dean Bear for all his hard work on the ROMID/CMD
program as it makes checking ROM version without opening the TRS -80
quick and painless. Thanks buddy.
Ian Mavric
ianm@trs-80.com
ASK MAV
ABOUT THE TANDY TRS-80 MODEL 4D
MICROCOMPUTER
by Ian Mavric
1.
2.
Q. Did Tandy advertise the computer? I don't recall any ads anywhere...
A. They must have figured the computer would sell itself because Tandy
invested virtually nothing in promoting the machine. I can think of only
one advert made for the 4D which appeared in magazines like 80micro
(so essentially preaching to the already converted masses):
During it's long life (that's not to say it sold in huge numbers) it never
dropped in price from $1199 and was still a regular feature in the 1990
catalog. People from 80micro speculated at the time that Tandy only did
a single production run and it took that many years to sell them all, or
that the profit margin per machine was so good that they didn't want to
reduce the price on a computer which was selling 50-100 units per
month. Conspiracy theorists speculated that Tandy wanted to keep a
computer which was historically related to their first computer on the
market due to the main competitor Apple still selling a computer (called
the IIgs) which was still related to their first successful computer - the
Apple ][. I don't really buy that explanation because while the Apple IIgs
was fairly current by 1990 (having a mouse, GUI, and 16-bit
architecture) the Model 4D was just hopelessly outdated in every aspect.
3.
Q. I own a Model 4 that works well, is there any point in buying a 4D?
A. Not really. The 4D's double-sided disk drives are handy but double
sided disk drives or 3.5in disk drives can be easily added to any Model 4.
The 4D runs at the same speed and has the same memory sizes (64K up
to 128K) as the Model 4. The green screen is quite nice to have if you
own an early Model 4 with the B&W screen but basically that's it.
4.
Q. Does the 4D have any problems one should be aware of?
A. It's actually a very well sorted machine and rarely gives any
problems. Early 4Ds had a membrane keyboard which felt dead to type
on and was difficult to repair so if that keyboard fails you more or less
throw it away and replace it with another one. Later keyboards were by
ALPS and as well as being much nicer to type on, you can also repair
individual key switches when they fail.
The disk drives are by Japanese manufacturer TEC and are type FB-503
and are not a bad unit, quiet and dependable with a direct -drive motor
no belts to wear out. But there is one problem which affects most drives
I have seen, which is the electrolytic capacitors tend to leak and cause
corrosion damage the logic board. The caps which cause most problems
are C14, C16, C17, and to a lesser extend C26 and C28. If your disk
drive fails unexpectedly check around these capacitors for unexplained
corrosion, and you may be able to replace them and replace damaged
PCB tracks. This problem doesn't seem to relate to how much or little
work the drive has done. I have seen drives with leaky capacitor which
have only done a few hours work in their life. Inspect yours today!
5.
Q. The screen is very sharp, how did they get such a clear picture?
A. Upon opening the 4D I noticed they used the Model 4P video board,
which is noted for it's very sharp picture. Time-wise this makes sense,
Tandy stopped making the 4P around the time they started making 4Ds
so probably had a large stock of 4P video board so just used them in the
new computer. All 4Ds come with a high-quality Phillips 12VCMP31
picture tube which was also used in the high-end business computers like
the Model 12, 16B and 6000. It's much sharper than the television grade
picture tube used in TRS-80 Model I/III/4 computers.
The Radio Shack graphics board (cat. no. 26-1126) from the regular
Model 4 just fits plugged into it's own special connector the same way as
the earlier machine. However due to the differing refresh-rates of the
Model 4D and Model III, the Model III graphics board into Model 4
installat ion won't work, so don't try it. I have also used a Grafyx Solution
board from Micro-Labs and it works fine on the 4D.
Next time: I answer questions about the Tandy TRS-80 Model 2000.
ianm@trs-80.com
Business Time with Kev
I my last article I introduced the second of my Model 16’s. Thank you for
all the positive comments as we (including me) re-discover these
majestic machines.
An issue aside, my unpacking woes have got worse as we removed the
remaining machines from the original storage area to move cars back in
there. Moving three AS/400’s into an already cramped and messy space
just doesn’t help but such is our lot in collect ing life.
Now before you get to some glorious photos of the first Model 16 I
acquired a little history is quite relevant here.
You might recall from my last article that the Model 16 featured came
from a bakery. Here’s what’s interesting, so did my first one but not the
same bakery. It came from a bakery in Mallala in South Australia. For
those who are motor racing enthusiasts this town might sound familiar
due to the presence of a very famous motor sport track.
In terms of rear ports this machine has the same ports. I have yet to
compare the configuration of these ports to see if they are exactly the
same as the Model 16b.
Well it sounds like there’s plenty of fodder for future articles as I work
towards getting these back up and running. As I write this article the first
machine featured is out getting one of the power supplies repaired. It
uses a Mode III power supply to run the drives and I opened the case
about a week or two ago and it had a popped cap on the Model II supply.
The main power supply appears to be quite tidy and intact.
For this machine, currently I’m describing it as a box of dust with some
electronics inside.
IN MAV'S WORKSHOP
by Ian Mavric
When designing the Model 4 in late 1982/early 1983, Radio Shack took
notice of what other computer makers like Kaypro, Osborne and even
IBM were doing and decided that a relatively portable version of the
Model 4 was just what busy managers needed. The result was a 10kg
cream plastic box we know as the Model 4P. Looking for ways to cut
production costs and improve reliability (that was not to say the 4P was
unreliable) advances in electronics in the early 1980s led to an entirely
new motherboard for the 4P around mid-1984. Using everything learned
from the Model 4 Gate-Array motherboard, a new reduced chip count
board combined arrays of TTL logic chips into single chips called gate-
arrays. We (and Radio Shack, for that matter), call these Gate-Array
motherboards, hereafter known as M4PGA boards. You can tell one of
these straight away as the computer catalog number is 26-1080A.
We see it has a number of large 24, 28, or 40 pin chips which are
logically laid out and while the board may look imposing, especially when
repairs are needed, if you know what each part does you can logically
track down problems fairly quickly.
U45: Z80A CPU - Needs to be a Z80A, I have seen boards which have a
plain Z80 which is not fast enough to run at 4MHz in Model 4 mode for
any length of time. If your computer won't start check for CLK signal on
Pin 6.
Address Decoder - if the computer won't get past a junk screen, and you
know the memory chips are all OK and that there is a CLK signal on Pin 6
of the Z80A, suspect this chip.
Y1 and U146 (Crystals): Y1 is for Model III mode (2.02MHz) and U146 is
for Model 4 mode (4MHz). I have seen systems where Model III mode
works but Model 4 mode doesn't - replace U146. If Y1 doesn't work then
the computer will not start at all.
U82 SRM2016C: Video RAM chip - if you see spelling errors on the screen
or characters is missing but the software otherwise works properly,
suspect this chip.
Video Gate Array - works in conjunction with U42, U82, and U103 to
display information on the CRT. When this chip fails, nothing will be
visible on the CRT, even though the computer still runs and responds to
commands.
U73 WD8116: Baud Rate generator - if the serial port doesn't work or if
some of the baud rates work and others don't, suspect this chip. But
check other RS232 problems below on chips U31, U33 and U70 (below).
RS232 support gate array, controls the interface between the RS232
serial port (U70, U33, U11, U12, U13) and the processor. If diagnostic
software reports no RS232 port installed, suspect this chip.
Ian Mavric
ianm@trs-80.com
£
The BEST in TRS-80s
Call The Right Stuff
Ask for Ian
The number is +61 416 184 893
http://ianmav.customer.netspace.net.au/trs80/