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Two completely different traditions have made up
the cuisine of Piacenza along the centuries, namely "peasant" or
country cooking and sophisticated, aristocratic cooking.
The country cooking, or cuisine du terroir, is the
better known of the two: its recipes have come down
to us with few changes through the years, particularly
from the post-war period, and represent the core
of any traditional menu of the town. |
This cuisine is closely linked to the country labours and produce of the Po valley,
the hills and the mountains. It is made up of simple and hearty dishes for big
appetites, cooked with fresh market produce, and resulting in unsophisticated,
but tasty meals, which satisfy the palate with the minimum of expense and the
maximum of caloric intake.
The second, more elaborated cuisine, a favourite among the clergy and the aristocracy,
has either disappeared or altered down the centuries, following the social
and economic changes of the times. Very little is left of what once filled
the tables
of the wealthy nobility and clergy of the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries. Piacenza being a border town, its cuisine has therefore been greatly
influenced by the neighbouring regions, particularly Lombardy and Liguria,
and by the gastronomically richer and more
inventive "heart" of deep Emilia.
Typical first courses include several types of anolini,
otherwise called cappelletti, similar to tortellini,
but made from a square of pasta rather than a circle
so that they form a peak; anellini (ring-shaped pasta);
bomba di riso (ball of baked rice with a core of meat);
malfatti or maltagliati (irregularly-shaped pasta);
different kinds of risotto; tortellini; gnocchi di
patata (potato dumplings); and panzerotti (tiny stuffed
pancakes). Pride of place in any traditional menu is
given to the tortelli di ricotta e spinaci (homemade
pasta stuffed with ricotta cheese and spinach, made
with very thin sheets of pasta dough rolled up in the
shape of a plait), and to the well-known pisarÈi e
fasÚ (bread dumplings and beans), which not even a
casual visitor can afford to miss. It consists of gnocchetti
in a sauce of olive oil, butter and lard with garlic,
onions, pepper, and, of course, Borlotti beans; a forerunner
of modern macrobiotic cuisine, it combines the nutritional
properties of cereals and pulses. Those gourmets touring
the valleys will also be able to taste delicious fresh
mushroom and truffle risottos.
As for the second courses, they include several kinds
of roast and boiled meats, game and poultry, and other
less common dishes like faraona alla creta (guinea
fowl cooked in a terracotta dish), bacon and peas,
polenta e merluzzo (polenta with cod) or pulaita e
quai (polenta with quails). Typical winter dishes are
minced horse meat, to be eaten raw or cooked with diced
vegetables (picula ad cavall), braised meats,
and for those who look for a vegetarian alternative,
the frit cui bavaron (leek omelette). A traditional
dish not to be missed is the burtlÍina or burt-lena
in its many variations: a savoury pancake that can
be eaten warm on its own, or stuffed with ham and/or
thin slices
of soft, tasty cheese from the Appennines.
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The dessert menu includes
several types of cakes (apple and plum tarts, almond
and potato cakes and cakes made with chestnut flour), |
the Lent turtlitt
(sweet tortelli like mince pies), croccante di nocciole
(crunchy bars of caramelized hazelnuts), as well the
buslanei (little ring-shaped biscuits) and the buslanei
(a ring-shaped cake), traditional country cakes to
dunk in white wine at the end of the meal (particularly
the buslein), or in milk for breakfast (buslanei).
Other country dishes with strong flavours, still served
at traditional fÍtes, are the different types of polenta
with cheese, stracchino (a kind of soft cheese), potatoes,
and ciccioli (scraps of pork fat); riso con latte (rice
and milk); and zuppa con l'olio (olive oil soup).
As
for the wines, our province boasts a long-standing
wine-making tradition dating from Roman times:
there is a story about Cicero, who, around two
thousand years ago, during one of his speeches
at the Senate, reproached his enemy Lucius Calpurnius
Piso for drinking one glass too many of the "delicious
Piacenza wines". In the last few years,
many of these wines have been given an image
boost, resulting in a sales increase, and some
of them - like for example Gutturnio, a very
fine red wine, Monterosso, a white wine from
Val d'Arda, and Trebbianino, another white from
Val Trebbia - have received the D.O.C. certificate
(Denominazione di Origine Controllata).
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Other typical wines
are Barbera, a robust red wine, Bonarda, a sweeter
red, and the whites from Valtidone, as well as the
ever-present sparkling Malvasia, a delicious accompaniment
to desserts.
Equally ancient and rich is our cheese-making tradition. It is mentioned in several
Roman and medieval documents, to say nothing of the floods of words written from
the sixteenth century onwards by educated scholars and connoisseurs to extoll
this or that product.
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The two typical cheeses
from the Piacenza area are grana, made in the lowlands
next to the river Po, and ribiÚla, produced on
mountain pastures. Grana, whose much-disputed origins
are still uncertain (Piacenza, Lombardy, and Emilia
have been fighting over them for centuries), is
a typical cow cheese of the Po valley, hard and
with a round shape, whereas ribiÚla can be made
either with sheep milk only or with a combination
of sheep and cow milk. It is eaten fresh, or can
be stored in glass jars, covered with a layer of
oil, and left to ripen until its taste becomes
rather pungent. To be mentioned also the different
types of ricotta cheeses and the mountain cheeses,
which are often sold on market stalls or during
village fairs.
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A traditional, and
justly renowned, hors-d'oeuvre consists in a dish of
salumi (cured pork meats), produced in the province
of Piacenza. The two most typical products are salame
and coppa, whose quality is now upheld by a newly-created
seal of quality, but equally tasty are pancetta (bacon)
and spalla cotta (cooked shoulder). The rare and delicious
culatello - a produce of Parma - is made in the far
east corner of the province, at Villanova sull'Arda,
on the border with the province of Parma
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